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Descrição do Produto: POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating
O POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating é a solução definitiva para quem busca proteção contra ferrugem e corrosão. Reconhecido como o padrão ouro em revestimentos de alta performance, o POR-15 é amplamente utilizado tanto por entusiastas do “faça você mesmo” quanto por profissionais em diversas indústrias. Este revestimento forma uma barreira impenetrável que protege uma variedade de superfícies contra água, produtos químicos, sal, contaminantes corrosivos e o desgaste do dia a dia. Quando aplicado utilizando o inovador Sistema de 3 Passos Stop Rust, o POR-15 se destaca em comparação a qualquer outra tinta, revestimento ou até mesmo revestimento em pó.
A força secreta do POR-15 reside em seu processo de cura. Ao contrário da maioria das tintas que secam por evaporação, o POR-15 seca mais rapidamente na presença de umidade, apresentando uma química oposta à das tintas comuns. Uma vez curado, o revestimento forma um acabamento indestrutível e resistente a impactos, garantindo durabilidade e proteção a longo prazo.
Aplicação do Produto
Para garantir a eficácia do POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating, é essencial seguir um processo de preparação adequado. Remova graxa, óleo e outras substâncias estranhas utilizando o Limpador Desengraxante à base de água da POR-15, seguido do Metal Prep para preparar a superfície e neutralizar a ferrugem. Agite bem o POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating, evitando agitação excessiva. Aplique camadas finas, com um mínimo de duas, e aguarde de 2 a 5 horas para que a superfície esteja seca ao toque antes de aplicar uma nova camada ou um revestimento superior. É recomendável aplicar um revestimento superior quando a superfície estiver exposta à luz UV.
Quando Utilizar
O POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating é ideal para indústrias automotivas, agrícolas, industriais, comerciais marítimas e de construção, protegendo equipamentos valiosos contra ferrugem, abrasão e corrosão. Seu revestimento possui excelente tolerância em superfícies porosas, como madeira, fibra de vidro, concreto, tijolos e muito mais.
Compromisso com a Satisfação
Na POR-15, nos dedicamos a oferecer o que há de melhor em prevenção contra ferrugem. Conhecido pelo imbatível sistema de 3 passos Stop Rust, o POR-15 é a escolha confiável de DIY e profissionais. Estamos comprometidos com a inovação, controle de qualidade e excelente atendimento ao cliente.
Características do Produto:
– Volume: 16 onças fluidas
– Cor: Prata
– Tipo de Revestimento: Não poroso, resistente a impactos
– Método de Cura: Cura por umidade
– Aplicação: Requer preparação da superfície com produtos específicos da linha POR-15
– Indústrias: Automotiva, agrícola, industrial, comercial marítima e construção
– Superfícies Compatíveis: Metal, madeira, fibra de vidro, concreto, tijolos e mais
Instruções de Uso:
1. Prepare a superfície removendo graxa e sujeira com o Limpador Desengraxante POR-15.
2. Utilize o Metal Prep para preparar a superfície e neutralizar a ferrugem.
3. Agite o POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating cuidadosamente.
4. Aplique camadas finas, com um mínimo de duas, respeitando o tempo de secagem entre as aplicações.
5. Para superfícies expostas à luz UV, aplique um revestimento superior após a secagem ao toque.
Perguntas Frequentes (FAQ):
Pergunta: O POR-15 pode ser aplicado em superfícies enferrujadas?
Resposta: Sim, o POR-15 pode ser aplicado em superfícies enferrujadas, desde que a ferrugem seja neutralizada com o Metal Prep antes da aplicação.
Pergunta: Quanto tempo leva para o POR-15 secar completamente?
Resposta: O tempo de secagem varia, mas geralmente a superfície estará seca ao toque em 2 a 5 horas. Para uma cura completa, recomenda-se aguardar 24 horas.
Pergunta: O POR-15 é resistente a produtos químicos?
Resposta: Sim, o POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating oferece excelente resistência a produtos químicos, tornando-o ideal para ambientes industriais e automotivos.
Pergunta: Posso aplicar o POR-15 em madeira?
Resposta: Sim, o POR-15 é compatível com superfícies de madeira, além de outros materiais como metal e concreto.
Pergunta: O que devo fazer se o POR-15 não secar corretamente?
Resposta: Se o POR-15 não secar corretamente, verifique as condições de umidade e temperatura durante a aplicação. A cura é acelerada na presença de umidade, então um ambiente muito seco pode afetar o processo.
J. Young –
Amazing stuff, used it for over a decade on countless projects. Silver contains metallic particles, so it will actually fill in pits and strengthen a weak-from-rust floor pan for example. Dries harder than a teenager in a strip club, in 2-6 hours, unlike products like Tremclad that can take many days to cure fully.
That also means you have a limited window of time to recoat it; do a second coat as soon as it’s not tacky but before it’s cured completely. Misting with water helps cure it faster if you need to; it’s hardened by moisture and gets tougher over time!
It’s not the most aesthetically pleasing paint, it’s inconsistent visually, so if you want something to look good you can spray a light coat of regular paint or primer over it, again BEFORE it’s fully cured.
Do NOT get it on your skin or clothes, nothing will remove it except POR 15’s own special thinner, or time.
J. Young –
I sanded the steel surface but the paint peeled off within 2 weeks.
The surface was washed so im not sure what happened. Maybe i got a bad batch.
Bastion –
***Stuck Lid SOLUTION***
First off let me say, this rust inhibiting paint is awesome!! It is super thin and soaks into the rust bonding it. The paint when cured/dried has a nice protective finish. I used this on some roof panels that were cut with a grinder wheel vs using a nibbler. Using cutting wheel to cut metal panels is a big no no, because the edge will start to rust due to the burning heat on the protective coating. Using a metal nibbler (Milwaukee) is the only way to cut metal roof panels.
Back to the lid solution/fix. if you use this paint and get any on the rim where the lid goes, you will not be able to get the lid back off because this paints bonding ability is insane, you will destroy the container trying to get the lid off. As seen in many reviews.
The fix is simple. With out ever having to remove the lid.
1. Get 2 roof screws (self tapping) with rubber washers.
2. Get some small ball bearings (4).
3. Once you have 2 screws in the top of the can (pour hole)+(Vent hole).
4. Drop the 4 ball bearings in the hole so when you shake it, the ball bearings will aid in mixing the paint.
Ryan –
I have refinished this steel bench a few times. Last time was with POR 15 Rust preventer in black. It was kept outside and since I did not top coat it, it oxidized under UV exposure fairly fast to a chalky mess. Couldn’t touch it without blackening your hands. I refinished it with silver Rust Preventer (again, not the top coat type) and it’s going inside my garage this time – so no UV exposure. The finish was heavily pocked and pitted which always looked poor when it was black, but the silver has metallic “dust??” in it. When I applied the paint it flowed out well filling the cavities and the metallic dust meandered into really interesting patterns. I applied two coats, sanding with 120 between applications. The finish is glass-smooth and shiny. It’s almost a shame I’m going to use it as a work bench now.
Others posted pics of wrecked cans but mine arrived in good conditions and opened as expected with no fuss. YOU MUST STIR THIS STUFF as the metallic dust settles out of suspension to the bottom. There’s a good half-inch of the stuff at the bottom. I stirred for a few minutes until the stick came out with no chunky metal gooped on it. I rolled and brushed – rolling created bubbles so I switched to brushing them out. In the end, the rolled areas I didn’t brush out finally settled down and the bubbles went away, so you could probably roll it. I used 3/8″ nap roller. The rolled areas took on a hammered finish and the brushed areas took on a streaky-bushed look. I’m very happy.
D. K. Numinen –
The price may seem high but this stuff is quality. Make sure to wear gloves and ensure the fumes are vented because this stuff doesnt come off of anything (clothes, skin, etc.) i did a full bed off repair on my 2002 tacoma and after welding repairs i prepped and coated the entire thing with por15 (silver in the bed black underneath) 2 quart size cans did an entire tacoma bed inside and under. After it dried i was very happy with it. This was the 100% most recommended product to me in order to prevent rust/ rot in prepped and/or repaired metal here in upstate NY
Digital Artist Jay –
This product is awesome! Not only does it turn rust into metal, but it also leaves a hard coating paint ontop of it. Amazing product if you need rust repair on an old car, etc. I have tried many other products before this. None last a long time. But this POR-15 seems to last the longest, and is the best and hardest product.
Kimberly Lazarski –
Hey gearheads!!
I am quick to complain about products that do not live up to claims, but in this case I used a product which exceeded my expectations by far: Por-15.
Our Saab is mostly rust free except for the frame rails in the front clip, and the rear crossmember (the crossmember is replaceable… /if/ I want to do a full rear suspension rebuild). Last winter before I put the Saab back on the road (a part was on backorder) I found the torque box joints in the front had thick flaking surface rust but now just seven months later the whole front frame is rusting. most “rust converter” paints are frauds and do not work. Por-15 is a multi-step system where you clean the metal with degreaser (I skipped that step as the frame only had a couple of tiny greasy spots on it), scrape off any flaking paint and loose rust, then you apply a metal prep solution that both etches and thinly plates any bare metal and converts rust into a different iron oxide forming a patina, and then you apply the rust preventer to stop the rusting process.
Well I did the etching step today, agitating it with a steel brush, washed it and blew off the excess water with a leaf blower, then just went out to check it after it had time to dry. I was amazed; everywhere I had agitated it with the steel brush, the rust had either been removed down to bare metal, and where the rust was slightly deeper it was converted to a black oxide (a patina), and the bare metal sections had a very thin but visible zinc coating. This stuff actually works. and once the rust was removed I found the frame is perfectly fine.
Because it has spread though I am taking the front end off to treat the sections covered by the bumper and spoiler panels then I will get a paint sprayer and paint it.
if you’re restoring a bike or car where rust is in the early enough stages that the metal is still solid, try Por 15. if you follow the steps like I did that are provided in reviews by people who have had good luck with it, the results will blow you away. Not only will I be able to get another winter or two out of the Saab but it will probably last a long time for whomever I give it to. That is assuming of course the frame isn’t also rusting from the inside out but I have an idea on how to address that with a pressure washer, Por 15, and fluid film.
for the rust preventer I chose silver because it provides more pinhole hole filling capability but fortunately that was unnecessary because I caught the rust early enough.
Follow directions and you will be pleased. Be sure to agitate it and reapply the metal prep many times, keeping the parts you are treating completely soaked.
Addaya Martin –
Creates a hard protective coating once applied. Only time will tell if it seals out moisture and prevents rust. So far it’s performed better than expected. Best preventative maintenance against planned obsolescence.
Bastion –
Works as intended, surprising how far it goes covers well
Pedro Gaston –
Love this stuff. Works as described but be careful to not get it in any nut threads. I was not careful and stripped three nuts that this stuff got into