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Descrição do Produto: Monroe Shocks
Os Monroe Shocks são a solução definitiva para quem busca um desempenho superior e segurança na condução de veículos. Com um design inovador e tecnologia de ponta, cada unidade de substituição de strut é projetada para oferecer uma experiência de condução incomparável. O sistema Quick-Strut da Monroe é uma opção mais rápida, segura e fácil para a substituição de struts, pois inclui tudo o que você precisa em uma única unidade totalmente montada, eliminando a necessidade de um compressor de mola.
Cada componente é calibrado com precisão para restaurar a altura de condução original do veículo, garantindo que o peso do carro seja suportado adequadamente. O design específico para cada veículo, que inclui molas, montagens e struts, assegura uma experiência de condução otimizada, adaptada ao perfil único de cada automóvel. A qualidade OE (Original Equipment) é mantida em cada montagem, com um design que garante um encaixe perfeito, forma e função.
Os Monroe Shocks são fabricados com aço de alta qualidade, apresentando um design superior de tubo e solda que proporciona integridade estrutural e durabilidade excepcionais. Além disso, eles mantêm o controle do veículo, reduzindo a oscilação da carroceria, vibrações e a aspereza da estrada antes que esses impactos cheguem à cabine do passageiro, melhorando assim o manuseio do veículo. A montagem superior premium do strut garante uma direção suave e precisa, semelhante à de um carro novo, prevenindo ruídos, vibrações e a sensação de direção “memória”.
A resistência à ferrugem é uma característica essencial, com um revestimento protetor que resiste à corrosão e testes de spray salino que garantem que os Monroe Shocks estão prontos para enfrentar os elementos. Cada montagem Quick-Strut é orgulhosamente montada nos Estados Unidos, em Paragould, Arkansas, garantindo um padrão de qualidade elevado.
Instruções de Uso:
Para utilizar os Monroe Shocks, siga estas etapas técnicas:
1. Levante o veículo e remova a roda correspondente ao strut que será substituído.
2. Desconecte os componentes do strut antigo, incluindo a montagem superior e as conexões da barra estabilizadora.
3. Remova o strut antigo e posicione o novo Monroe Quick-Strut no lugar.
4. Conecte a montagem superior e os componentes de suspensão, garantindo que todas as conexões estejam firmes e seguras.
5. Reinstale a roda e abaixe o veículo. Realize um teste de condução para garantir que a instalação foi bem-sucedida.
Características do Produto:
– Montagem Rápida: Inclui todos os componentes necessários para a substituição em uma unidade montada.
– Restauração da Altura de Condução: Molas projetadas especificamente para cada aplicação.
– Design Específico para Veículos: Garantia de desempenho otimizado para cada modelo.
– Qualidade OE: Montagem superior pré-montada com design de estilo OE.
– Durabilidade: Fabricado com aço de alta qualidade e design robusto.
– Controle do Veículo: Redução de vibrações e oscilação da carroceria.
– Melhoria na Direção: Montagem superior premium para direção suave.
– Resistência à Ferrugem: Revestimento protetor contra corrosão.
– Montagem nos EUA: Produzido com orgulho em Paragould, Arkansas.
Perguntas Frequentes (FAQ):
Pergunta: Os Monroe Shocks são compatíveis com meu veículo?
Resposta: Sim, os Monroe Shocks são projetados especificamente para uma ampla gama de veículos. Verifique a compatibilidade no site do fabricante ou consulte um revendedor autorizado.
Pergunta: É necessário um compressor de mola para a instalação?
Resposta: Não, os Monroe Quick-Struts são fornecidos como unidades totalmente montadas, eliminando a necessidade de um compressor de mola.
Pergunta: Qual é a garantia dos Monroe Shocks?
Resposta: Os Monroe Shocks geralmente vêm com uma garantia limitada que cobre defeitos de fabricação. Consulte o manual do produto para detalhes específicos.
Pergunta: Como posso saber se preciso substituir meus struts?
Resposta: Sinais de que os struts podem precisar ser substituídos incluem desgaste irregular dos pneus, vibrações excessivas, e uma sensação de instabilidade ao dirigir.
Pergunta: Os Monroe Shocks melhoram a eficiência do combustível?
Resposta: Sim, ao restaurar a altura de condução e melhorar o manuseio, os Monroe Shocks podem contribuir para uma melhor eficiência de combustível ao reduzir a resistência ao rolamento.
Raymond –
Installed 4 Monroe Quick-Struct on my 1999 Nissan Maxima SE (171682, 171683, 2x 171293). The 2 rear ones are relatively straightforward. The two front ones are slightly more difficult.
First off, here are the torque settings from the factory service manual for the bolts:
Front: lower struct bolts: 103-117 ft-lb, upper bolts: 29-40 ft-lb
Rear: lower struct bolts: 72-87 ft-lb, upper bolts: 13-17 ft-lb
I highly recommend using an air impact wrench to remove the lower struct bolts. I used an Ingersoll Rand 231C with my tiny Sears 3 gallon air compressor, and the struct bolts came off easily, no penetrating oil, nothing. They came lose within a few seconds. Wow. I purchased the impact wrench after failing to loosen the bolts with a breaker bar.
For the rear, I recommend putting on the bottom struct bolt on first, then push the rotor down a bit so you can align the top two bolts with the holes in the trunk and push it in. If you install the top bolts first, you may have hell of a time getting the bottom bolt in because it may not align up quite exactly and there’s no wiggle room at the bottom.
For the front, the top three bolts only go in one way (the space/angle between the 3 bolts are not the same, so only goes in one way). The Monroe instruction sheet does mention you need to rotate the struct a bit to align up the bolts at the top. You can rotate it before you put it in, or rotate the bottom part after the top three bolts are in.
For the front, because of the steering mechanism, the rotor/steering-knuckle piece may rotate-out and drop down a bit when you remove the old struct. If you can, do not let it drop out too much, as it was really difficult to push it back in. You have to get it at the right angle, and it WILL go back in. Do not panic like I did. 😉 The part that slides out is in the inner CV joint. Also cover the outer CV boots when you remove the old struct to prevent damaging the rubber boots.
An alignment is required after replacing the front structs. My car handled terribly after the install. After the alignment it handled fine.
The ride was quite stiff initially, with lots of body roll on every bump on the road. The shock appears to need some break-in. They might have been laying down flat in storage for a few years. You need to compress and release them a few times to get the air/gas to the proper place. After install, you can simply jack up the car and let it come down very slowly a few times. From what I read, most aftermarket shocks are stiffer than OEM ones, I guess most people buying them wants more performance. After some break-in period and compressing/release them, the ride quality is quite good. Pretty smooth on highway, and very dampened on local roads. Not quite 100% OEM ride quality, but very good.
Last bit of information. Mine was made in the US (Tenn). I used a micrometer to measure the coil spring wire diameter to see how they compare with the OEM spec. They seem to be just slightly bigger than the OEM spec, both front/rear.
Front
OEM spec: M/T 13.7mm, AT 13.9mm,
Monroe: 14.45mm (0.567″)
Rear:
OEM spec: Luxury 11.9mm, Sport 12.1mm
Monroe: 13.38mm (0.527″)
Overall I am pretty happy. The price was very good, considering you are getting new coil spring and shocks, plus the upper bearing for the front which is a load bearing ball-joint.
hornms –
I bought a set of 4 for my daughter’s 1997 Maxima which had 95k miles. That is not a lot of miles for strutes, but the back shock was leaking and would bang when you hit a PA pothole. I watched a few youtube videos and was able to change the 2 back struts in under 60 minutes. The front struts were also very easy, EXCEPT to reattach the spring clip that holds the brake line to the strut. There is no way to apply any leverage and it took me almost 30 minutes for each little spring clip. Total time for the front was about 2 hours due to the spring clip problems. Use a long pipe (about 2-3 feet) on your sockets to brake the bolts free. Let some WD-40 soak the dirt away for a few minutes. I measured the height of the wheel arch before and after and the results were definitely higher. The back was raised by 1/4″ and the front was raised by a full 1″. The car is looking a little funny, but I am hoping it sinks a little over time. It has been 2 weeks since installed and the ride height is the same. The ride quality is like night and day, almost like riding in my Lexus (almost wink wink). My daughter took it for a ride and was waiting for a bad section of the road to see how the new struts improved the ride quality, when she realized she was already past it. She did not even notice the bumps. I highly recommend this upgrade if you have an older car with weak struts. It is like a new car. Installation is very easy (youtube is your friend) and the total cost was about $500 for entire car. Good luck with your project.
GV –
I installed this great product on a 1997 Nissan Maxima. Customer support at Monroe is awesome, as one of the studs on the top mount broke, and I had to get a replacement. Be confident and buy this well engineered and quality product from Monroe — they will serve you well. Rememeber the torque setting for the rear strut’s upper mount is approximately half that of the front strut. For a 1997 Nissan maxima, the Front strut’s top mount torque specification is 35FT_LB, and for the rear it is only 18FT_LB. It is very important that you check the service manual of your car for proper torque setting than to use the once I listed here. The ride quality is almost as good as the OEM quality. But the springs are a tiny bit more stiff (slightly thicker coils) than the OEM, causing slight roughness relative to the original equipment. But I am sure, the springs will settle under load and match OEM ride quality in a few months. Now some installation instructions: When doing the rear struts, remove the trunk capet and liner walls (grey capeted cardboard that lines the trunk) by pulling out the plastic screws that secure the liner to the metal frame of the car. I used a pair of needle nose pliers get behind the head of the plastic screw and squeeze it gently, while using a prying action. Jack-up your vehicle one side at at time and use jack stands to support the vehicle safely. Remove the lower mount bolt by using an impact wrentch or a breaker bar attached to a 17mm socket. Pre-spray penetrating oil repeatedly over a period of hours if the bolt refuses to come out. Remove the two top screws. Do not remove the top center bolt of the strut, unless you have a spring compressor — the spring is under great tensior and couls serioulsy injure you. Also, with this complete quick strut assembly, you have no reason to remove the center bolt from the old assembly — so just don’t do it. While you have the old strut removed, compare it with the new one to orient the top mount in relation to the bottom mount. Rotate the top of the new assembly to match the old assembly — it is easily done, if one person grasps the spring coil and another person rotates the top. Tip: It helps to temporarily put the nut on the stud and use a closed (circular as opposed to the open) end of crescent wrench on one of the nuts and lock the wrench on the opposite stud to rotate the mount to the disired angle. Attach the bottom mount first. Have an assistnat step on the rear brake rotor to push it down while you slide the top mount studs into the holes in the trunk. You can also line one of the studs first into the trunk hole and use a metal bar or flat blade screw driver wrapped in soft material to tap the other stud into the remaining trunk hole for fine alignment. Use a torque wrench with appropriate torque to tighten the bolt. Mount the wheels back and make sure you align the wheels. I got my wheels aligned at Sears auto center.