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Descrição do Produto: Monroe Quick-Strut 171954
O Monroe Quick-Strut 171954 é a solução ideal para quem busca um desempenho superior na suspensão do Toyota Corolla, Chevrolet Prizm e Geo Prizm, modelos que vão de 1993 a 2002. Este conjunto de strut e mola helicoidal é projetado para oferecer uma experiência de condução inigualável, combinando segurança, conforto e durabilidade em um único produto.
Compatibilidade: O Monroe Quick-Strut 171954 é compatível com os seguintes veículos:
– 1998-2002 Chevrolet Prizm
– 1993-1997 Geo Prizm
– 1993-2002 Toyota Corolla
Obtenha a Peça Certa: Antes de realizar a compra, é fundamental pesquisar para garantir que a peça se encaixará no seu veículo. Insira todas as informações do veículo (ano, marca, modelo, motor e acabamento) para verificar a compatibilidade e consultar as notas qualificadoras.
Reparo Rápido, Seguro e Completo: Este produto inclui tudo o que você precisa para a substituição do strut em uma única unidade totalmente montada, eliminando a necessidade de um compressor de mola. Isso não só acelera o processo de instalação, mas também garante que você tenha todos os componentes necessários à mão.
Restaura a Altura de Condução: Cada tipo de mola helicoidal é calibrado com precisão para atender ao design original do equipamento (OE), garantindo que a altura de condução seja restaurada e que o peso do veículo seja suportado adequadamente.
Design Específico para o Veículo: O design específico da mola helicoidal, do suporte e do strut assegura uma experiência de condução e manuseio otimizada, adaptada ao perfil único de cada veículo.
Qualidade OE: O Monroe Quick-Strut apresenta um design de estilo OE, com suporte superior pré-montado, mola helicoidal e strut, garantindo um encaixe, forma e função perfeitos.
Feito para Durar: Fabricado com aço de alta qualidade, este produto possui um design superior de tubo e solda, proporcionando integridade estrutural e durabilidade excepcionais.
Mantém o Controle do Veículo: O Monroe Quick-Strut reduz a oscilação da carroceria, vibrações e aspereza da estrada antes que cheguem à cabine do passageiro, melhorando o manuseio do veículo.
Melhora a Direção: O suporte superior premium ajuda a garantir uma direção suave e precisa, semelhante à de um veículo novo, reduzindo ruídos, vibrações e a memória da direção.
Proteção contra Ferrugem: A camada protetora reduz a ferrugem, enquanto os testes de pulverização de sal garantem que o produto esteja pronto para enfrentar os elementos.
### – Instruções de Uso:
Para instalar o Monroe Quick-Strut 171954, siga estas etapas:
1. Levante o veículo e remova a roda correspondente.
2. Desconecte os componentes da suspensão existentes, incluindo o strut antigo.
3. Instale o novo conjunto Monroe Quick-Strut, garantindo que todos os pontos de fixação estejam alinhados corretamente.
4. Reinstale a roda e abaixe o veículo.
5. Realize um teste de direção para garantir que a instalação foi bem-sucedida e que o desempenho está dentro dos padrões esperados.
### Características do Produto:
– Modelo: Monroe Quick-Strut 171954
– Compatibilidade: Toyota Corolla (1993-2002), Chevrolet Prizm (1998-2002), Geo Prizm (1993-1997)
– Material: Aço de alta qualidade
– Design: Estilo OE, pré-montado
– Função: Restauração da altura de condução, controle de vibrações e oscilação
– Durabilidade: Tratamento contra ferrugem e design robusto
### Perguntas Frequentes (FAQ):
Pergunta: O Monroe Quick-Strut 171954 é fácil de instalar?
Resposta: Sim, o produto vem pré-montado, o que facilita a instalação e elimina a necessidade de um compressor de mola.
Pergunta: Este strut é compatível com meu Toyota Corolla 2000?
Resposta: Sim, o Monroe Quick-Strut 171954 é compatível com Toyota Corolla de 1993 a 2002.
Pergunta: O que fazer se o strut não se encaixar corretamente?
Resposta: Verifique todas as informações do veículo e as notas de compatibilidade antes da compra. Se ainda houver problemas, entre em contato com o vendedor.
Pergunta: O Monroe Quick-Strut melhora a qualidade da condução?
Resposta: Sim, ele é projetado para reduzir vibrações e melhorar o manuseio, proporcionando uma experiência de condução mais suave.
Pergunta: Qual é a garantia do produto?
Resposta: A garantia pode variar conforme o revendedor, mas geralmente, os produtos Monroe têm uma garantia limitada que cobre defeitos de fabricação. Verifique com o vendedor para detalhes específicos.
SnackGuy –
Just replaced my factory original struts on my ’98 Corolla with these. Car rides much nicer with these, obviously a huge improvement over the factory pieces which had given out completely (165k kms on the originals, not bad!). These are stiff but not uncomfortably so, they make my car feel very solid on the road. Installation was not too hard, studs on top, with a bolt in place of one of the studs, 2 bolts in the bottom, one end of the sway bar end link, and a brake line which needs to be disconnected and bled when reattached. Would recommend installing new sway bar links when you do these, simply because they’re cheap, and you need to unbolt the old ones anyways. Pick up some brake fluid so you can refill the brake reservoir after bleeding the system, and you’ll be good to go. 2 people took just over 3 hours from pulling the car in to driving it out, doing both sides of the rear.
SpamOfDeath –
If your car is sagging when loaded, understeering when taking turns (takes turns extra wide) or has a terrible time handling rough pavement, these are the ticket to like new handling.
Bought a complete set for my 98 Toyota Corolla. The front set install easily with a little bit of elbow grease (and WD40, and a breaker bar!). The rears will make you scream and curse for two reasons.
1- the retaining flange for the brake line does not have a gap cut into it; this means you get to disconnect the brake line to install these struts. If you’re handy, cut a notch into the flange and save yourself the trouble of having to bleed your brakes.
2- the top seat that mounts into the strut towers is off by a smidge; this means you will drive yourself crazy trying to install it out of the box (the screw posts do not accurately line up with the holes in the strut tower). You must drill out the holes by 1-2 millimeters and then it’ll fit like a glove.
Other than the install issues, these things are solid and otherwise easy to install provided you have the tools to do so. The ride quality is excellent and I’ve had no problems with them.
Lastly, you should buy the rear sway bar end links (1 per side) and install them at the same time, as you need to partially remove them anyway. They run roughly $15-20 each and will help correct uneven rear tire wear.
Installing these struts yourself costs roughly $250 for the parts. A reputable shop will charge you $670 – $200 per strut and 3 hours of labor at $90 per hour.
Happy motoring!
Gavin G –
Nice unit, well made and fit good. Excellent handling, feels like a new car. Ride height increased with new springs, now as it should have been. Only issue is brake lines have to be removed when changing, requires bleeding when done and sway bar links have tocome off too, buy new ones while your at it, you will likely destroy them taking them off
J. Collins –
I purchased four new Monroe QuickStrut’s for my 2000 Toyota Corolla LE. I was willing to pay the extra money for these all-in-one units. The front two went on without any problems and were easy as pie. The back two on the other hand were extremely confusing and a huge pain in the neck. Don’t even bother with the instructions. They make no sense. One of the inserts is meant for the normal struts, not these QuikStrut’s. No need to take off the spring or anything so why is it even included?
What you may or may not be able to tell from the picture, the 171953 and 171954 units only have two upper mounting bolts/studs. Most come with three like the front ones and the original equipment that came off my car. At first I thought maybe one had broken off in shipping like one of my front ones (that is another story!), but both only had two. I checked the instructions and it mentioned nothing. In the packet of the two nuts for the bolts/studs was one screw. What I learned on my own was that this screw is meant to be tied down from the top into the upper mounting bracket, which is completely opposite from the other two and every other stud I have worked on. I’m sure it will work fine, but they need to add something to the instructions to explain this and the proper torque. Plus you may have to bang the upper mounting bracket around with a rubber hammer to make it fit the stud openings on your car. The upper mounting bracket on the front studs move around easily, these do not.
Something else that is very annoying is that the bracket for the brake line needs to be cut or notched to allow the passing of the brake line through the side when removing and installing. Otherwise you need to disconnect the lines and run them through the hole in the bracket. This then requires bleeding the brakes (which can be a pain if you don’t have any help) and working with potentially old and brittle brake lines/connectors. The brake line is probably held in place by a tension clip anyway on most cars (it was on mine at least) so why is it really necessary to have it this way? A mechanic friend said that I should have cut a notch in the side, that is what they usually do and they are professionals. Next time I will.
One final note. The rear studs on my Corolla are connected to the rear stabilizer/sway bar linkage. I didn’t realize this going into the project. When these get old they become very difficult to remove for the the average DIY’er. Check around for videos on how to remove. It involves a combination of an allen wrench and preferably a ratcheting pass-through wrench. I would recommend getting new ones for each side. You will then only need to remove one nasty bolt vs. two. That is also not to mention trying to salvage the old ones, if even possible. Again, the front ones are much easier. The combination of new linkages and struts has been like night and day on my car. Good luck!
Alex –
Replaced front and rear struts for my 2002 Corolla 3 years ago and have not any issues since then car has been driven 40k+ miles and I’m still using the same Monroe struts. Please note that the car will sit a lot higher if you replace them with these struts.
James p. –
Easy to install, just purchase the rear stabilizer linkage as well if its never been replaced before.
Mathieu BC –
I have this strut for 2 years and I made 20 000 kilometer on It and the strut just started to have a brittle paint. I will put a rust absorbed primer and a clear coat. The gravel cities put during the winter eventually week the paint. I’m still happy, because the strut are still strong. Last time, I changed all 4 strut because the front driver strut was worn out after 80 000 kilometers of rough highway cripple with bump and cracks.
1keypurcahser –
Good quality Strutt used to replace factory strutts on a 2002 Corolla.
Southern States Auto Repair –
I bought a 97 Corolla about 4 years ago at 129,000 miles. This car would wear out rear tires in less than 35,000 miles. I had the car to an alignment shop with no success in improving rear tire life.
A month ago, I took the car to get new rear tires as the left rear tire was cupping. The salesman said that wear was caused by bad struts. I had the new rear tires installed. I inspected the rear struts and I was amazed at how worn out they appeared.
I decided to order the complete rear strut assemblies along with the sway bar end links and bushings. After installing all of these parts, the car handles like new.
As far as installation, I did not need to enlarge any of the upper mounting holes as some have reported. Also, there is a new bolt that is mounted downward from the upper mounting point; unlike the old assembly which had 3 upper bolts.
Loosing the brake line is no big deal; just bleed the rear brakes afterwards.
You have to remove the rear seat bottom and upper side seat pieces in order to gain access to the upper mount areas. Not a big deal; just check out Youtube for infor on how to do this.
Truth betold –
Worked Great. For a while I thought that there might be something wrong with them as they kept making noise after I installed them. Months later I found out that the noise was coming from a defective sway bar that had warn and was loose. After that everything has been very quiet and a much smoother ride. Its been about 2 years since the install now.Thank you