- COMPATIBILITY – Fits 1998-2002 Chevrolet Prizm; 1993-1997 Geo Prizm; 1993-2002 Toyota Corolla
- GET THE RIGHT PART — Before purchasing, research to ensure that the part will fit your vehicle; enter all vehicle information (year, make, model, engine and trim) for compatibility and check qualifier notes
- QUICKER, SAFER, EASIER AND COMPLETE REPAIR — Includes everything you need for strut replacement in a single, fully assembled unit with no need for a spring compressor
- RESTORES RIDE HEIGHT — Precisely calibrated to meet the OE design, each application-specific coil spring type is engineered to restore ride height and support the vehicle’s weight
- VEHICLE-SPECIFIC DESIGN — Application-specific coil spring, mount and strut designs ensure optimized ride and handling experience unique to each vehicle profile
- OE QUALITY — Preassembled upper strut mount, coil spring, and strut feature an OE-style design for seamless fit, form, and function
- MADE TO LAST — Manufactured with high-quality steel, featuring a superior tube and weld design to deliver structural integrity and durability
- MAINTAINS VEHICLE CONTROL — Reduces body sway, vibration and road harshness before it reaches the passenger cabin for improved vehicle handling
- IMPROVES STEERING — Premium upper strut mount helps ensure smooth, “like-new” steering precision and reduces noise, vibration, harshness and memory steer
- RUST PROTECTION — Protective coating reduces rust while salt spray testing ensures it’s ready for the elements


Frete Grátis em todo o BrasilProduto Original Importado dos EUA
Monroe Quick-Strut 171953 Suspension Strut and Coil Spring Assembly for Toyota Corolla
*$1,295.50
Informação adicional
Brand | Monroe |
---|---|
Auto Part Position | Front |
Vehicle Service Type | Car |
Exterior Finish | Black |
Material | steel |
Extended Length | 22.5 Inches |
Global Trade Identification Number | 00048598032713 |
Style | Modern |
UPC | 048598032713 |
Manufacturer | Monroe Shocks & Struts |
Model | Strut and Coil Spring Assembly |
Item Weight | 16.7 pounds |
Product Dimensions | 29.2 x 8.2 x 9 inches |
Country of Origin | China |
Item model number | 171953 |
Manufacturer Part Number | 171953 |
Date First Available | January 21, 2008 |
98rod –
this product was for a 2002 corolla and it was part of a all around suspension rebuild. for the price and ease of replacement, you really can’t go wrong. doing all four corners gives peace of mind that the car can handle properly in case of emergencies i.e. evasive maneuvers. the only glitch of this product is the upper mounting bolts don’t align perfectly with the stock holes, so you must drill the holes out by 1/32 of an inch then it will slip right in with no problems. don’t expect anything better than a stock ride quality as these aren’t performance struts assemblies.
Sylvain Dubois –
Perfect!
SpamOfDeath –
If your car is sagging when loaded, understeering when taking turns (takes turns extra wide) or has a terrible time handling rough pavement, these are the ticket to like new handling.
Bought a complete set for my 98 Toyota Corolla. The front set install easily with a little bit of elbow grease (and WD40, and a breaker bar!). The rears will make you scream and curse for two reasons.
1- the retaining flange for the brake line does not have a gap cut into it; this means you get to disconnect the brake line to install these struts. If you’re handy, cut a notch into the flange and save yourself the trouble of having to bleed your brakes.
2- the top seat that mounts into the strut towers is off by a smidge; this means you will drive yourself crazy trying to install it out of the box (the screw posts do not accurately line up with the holes in the strut tower). You must drill out the holes by 1-2 millimeters and then it’ll fit like a glove.
Other than the install issues, these things are solid and otherwise easy to install provided you have the tools to do so. The ride quality is excellent and I’ve had no problems with them.
Lastly, you should buy the rear sway bar end links (1 per side) and install them at the same time, as you need to partially remove them anyway. They run roughly $15-20 each and will help correct uneven rear tire wear.
Installing these struts yourself costs roughly $250 for the parts. A reputable shop will charge you $670 – $200 per strut and 3 hours of labor at $90 per hour.
Happy motoring!
Dennis Demessianos –
This took my serviceman just over an hour to install both units into my Toyota Corolla. The only issue he encountered was the way Toyota routed the brake lines which due to the age and corrosion of the old units he had to cut the old mounts away from the old units.
They noticeably raised the rear of the car back to its original ride height, and restored that new car feel, both in its ability to absorb road bumps and high speed highway tracking.
My car had 145,000 miles when these were installed and now I am considering installing new front struts also. When I feel it needs it, I will get the front version of theses.
Paperlion –
Great value, I installed these by myself, would have been easier if I had help but wasn’t too hard, other side was a breeze since learning dos and don’ts on 1st side. Stock strut has 3 studs on top, this unit has 2 studs and 1 threaded hole with a bolt in the pack, the directions were generic for all models, a simple call to tech support verified 3rd attachment is a bolt down from top, other reviewers said they had to drill top mounting holes bigger, I just made sure bolt holes lined up and lifted unit into place with a floor jack under the hub and it popped into place. The $130 I spent on 2 struts was Less than 1/3 the cost the local shop quoted for same repair, can’t imagine what the dealer would have charged. No more clunking from the rear end.
SnackGuy –
Just replaced my factory original struts on my ’98 Corolla with these. Car rides much nicer with these, obviously a huge improvement over the factory pieces which had given out completely (165k kms on the originals, not bad!). These are stiff but not uncomfortably so, they make my car feel very solid on the road. Installation was not too hard, studs on top, with a bolt in place of one of the studs, 2 bolts in the bottom, one end of the sway bar end link, and a brake line which needs to be disconnected and bled when reattached. Would recommend installing new sway bar links when you do these, simply because they’re cheap, and you need to unbolt the old ones anyways. Pick up some brake fluid so you can refill the brake reservoir after bleeding the system, and you’ll be good to go. 2 people took just over 3 hours from pulling the car in to driving it out, doing both sides of the rear.
Mathieu BC –
I have this strut for 2 years and I made 20 000 kilometer on It and the strut just started to have a brittle paint. I will put a rust absorbed primer and a clear coat. The gravel cities put during the winter eventually week the paint. I’m still happy, because the strut are still strong. Last time, I changed all 4 strut because the front driver strut was worn out after 80 000 kilometers of rough highway cripple with bump and cracks.
Seabee wife –
Waste of the extra $50 for each complete assembly. The mounting studs at the top are a hair over a 16th wider and don’t fit. The strut was also 45 degrees off from center which required me to find a spring compressor to adjust so it would fit the lower mount. There are only two studs on the top of the strut and you have to use a bolt supplied by the Monroe folks to make the third. The instructions for the rear strut complete assemblies were wrong (for a regular strut) and there were different instruction in both boxes I purchased. Don’t waste your money on this one. Buy the regular strut and borrow the spring compressor from the parts store.
J. Flores –
Great deal on behalf of Amazon as local mechanics wanted $200 per unit and local autoparts dealers want $185 per unit. The installation is not hard at all. I used only hand tools (no pneumatic or electric) and it took me about 4 hours to swap both sides. I highly recommend spraying all the bolts down the night before with a product such as WD40 – Rust remover which is a fantastic product in itself and will loosen pretty much any stuck bolt. I didn’t need to drill out one of the top holes as many have reported either as everything lined up very perfectly. I do have three special tips however :
1) This is an option for you but it made my life extremely easier. For the brake lines (mine are very old and I didn’t want to risk taking them apart), I simply used a hack saw to saw a little notch into the holder of the new assemblies so it will match how the old ones are. The hack saw does just fine and slices right through the metal with no problem.
2) Be aware that the strut mounting plate may not be in the right position for you to mount the strut on the car. I had to rent a spring compressor so I could compress the spring so I could slightly turn the mounting plate until it lined up to where it should be.
3) I would recommend replacing the stabilizer bar links and bushings as well while you are at it. Those are cheap add-on parts and replacing the links especially made my life easier as those bolts are usually not in the best shape.
Those three things in mind and spraying down the bolts the night before actually make this a very easy weekend job! The difference is very noticeable. I will update my review in a few months after some heavy usage.
Alex –
Replaced front and rear struts for my 2002 Corolla 3 years ago and have not any issues since then car has been driven 40k+ miles and I’m still using the same Monroe struts. Please note that the car will sit a lot higher if you replace them with these struts.