- Item Package Dimension: 5.16L x 4.25W x 1.5H inches
- Item Package Weight – 0.3 Pounds
- Item Package Quantity – 1
- Product Type – AIR COMPRESSOR


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Lisle 18500 Small Engine Ring Compressor
*$370.50
Informação adicional
Brand | Lisle |
---|---|
Voltage | 100 Volts |
Power Source | Hand Powered |
Included Components | Compressor |
Maximum Power | 4.25 Watts |
Color | Factory |
Model Name | Lisle 18500 Small Engine Ring Compressor |
Manufacturer | Lisle |
UPC | 083045185000 |
Global Trade Identification Number | 00083045185000 |
Style | 1-1/2" to 3" (38.1-76.2mm) |
Item Weight | 4.6 ounces |
Product Dimensions | 6 x 2.2 x 4.9 inches |
Country of Origin | China |
Item model number | 18500 |
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
Manufacturer Part Number | 18500 |
Date First Available | August 12, 2004 |
Greg Phillips –
Worked great on my 2.5” piston.
73 –
Worked perfectly for installing new pistons and rings in my Briggs and Stratton Vanguard engine. Make sure to coat all parts and the compressor with SAE30 engine oil first before use, otherwise it will be difficult to use.
Professor Potrzebie –
I had one of these for years, and used it every few. I must have loaned it to someone, because I couldn’t find it when i needed it recently. No problem – I bought another. And it is exactly like my old one. It’s a simple device, made to last – just be careful who you loan it to!
Wyatt B. –
Worked in the 4.050 pistons in my 390. Made in USA. Price is right. Buy it.
ian arthur price –
These are very high quality and work exstreamly well
UnexplodedCow –
This is a run of the mill ring compressor, with a slight wrinkle band at the bottom, which I’ve noticed makes installing pistons a little easier. It is a spring loaded slip-clutch design, which will eventually wear out, but will last longer, and grip better than a sprag clutch design (the teeth wear out on those).
The wrinkle banding is a plus for sure, as I was able to install CVH pistons more easily than with an antique compressor. The tool also comes with its own square-drive wrench, and is an odd size. The problem with this: it’s much easier to use a 1/4″ drive ratchet (as other ring compressors have that I’ve seen), and the wrench piece itself feels a little short for the amount of torque required. The upside: the metal doesn’t flex and bend under greater torque amounts, and an open-ended wrench can be used if needed.
I used this to install a set of 3.23″ diameter Ford CVH pistons, and cast rings. Nothing bound, and the rings didn’t suddenly pop out of the compressor and stick on the block deck. It’s a good tool for a good price, and as always, Amazon shipped it very quickly.
Jeremy –
Broke quickly in a small engine shop but would work well for home. Was not as easy to use as the pliers type band compressors. If you are going to do more than 4 or 5 small engine rebuilds in your lifetime get the pliers band type compressors. you can even get them in sizes that cover auto and outdoor power equipment in the same kit.
Al –
Works well. Good value for the price. A professional may opt for a kit with more options & sizes.
Stephen –
First, let me say that I rarely review products, so if I do, it’s usually for a very good reason. I have built more engines than I can remember (I work as a Mercedes/Smart tech and rebuild engines on a regular basis both at work and as side jobs). I have good factory tools at work, but I got this to use at home (I used to have a better tool, but long story short, don’t lend tools to people you can’t trust to return them). This compressor is difficult to use and has sharp edges (I cut myself on it). More importantly, it is not completely/perfectly round, and even when oiled generously, it twists when pushing the piston out of it, creating a gap at the bottom potentially allowing the rings to expand before they enter the cylinder. I did several cylinders without issue, but eventually I guess the end of one of the oil control rings lined up with a gap in the tool. The oil rings are so thin/fragile and the compression rings and tool so tight that I didn’t even notice an increased force, but the last 1/4 inch of an oil control ring was bent and pulled out of the groove (flat against the piston). I didn’t notice anything was wrong until I had pushed the piston most of the way down in the cylinder. By that point, I had a significant score in the cylinder wall of a brand new Mercedes AMG engine block that had already been over-bored to the safe limit (and, of course, the ring was ruined). Maybe I can find a shop that can replace the cylinder sleeve, if the part is even available… If not, I’ll be buying my customer another new AMG engine block (ridiculously expensive, even by Mercedes standards). Not to mention I now need to pay for a new custom forged piston and ring set. I saved a few dollars by buying this tool, but it cost me enough money to buy a modest new car (not to mention the several month delay to fix the situation will probably loose me a good customer).
Perhaps this is a rare occurrence, and/or maybe I’m just incompetent (hard to believe with the factory training and years of experience I have, but who knows…). If not, this is a very poor tool, and a risk not worth taking.
Even if my incident is unlikely, the tool is difficult/inconvenient to use and if yours is as sharp as mine, you can easily cut yourself pretty badly. There are much better options out there for not much more money.
The best ring compressors are the engine specific ones that only fit one size. Assuming you want a more universal tool, I recommend getting a plier set such as the OTC 4838 set. I have no experience with that particular set, but will be buying it to replace this tool. (Even if I wanted to use this tool again, which I do not, I was rather upset when it failed, and there is not much left of it.)
TheZivo –
Perfect experience, to be honest, I had previously purchased a different ring compressor system, and after slicing my finger and failing to even get the first piston halfway in, I jumped on Amazon and bought this one. Thing worked like a charm for my 5.3 Pistons.
And it didn’t feel like a throw away tool, like the first one I bought. I know if I ever need this tool again I can pull it out of the bottom of my toolbox and have no worries about it working.
If I had to complain about one thing it’s that the size selection bit can sometimes work it’s way out when you are trying to get the tool on the piston, but it was so little of an inconvenience, and sometimes actually convenient, that I cannot knock them.
Usage recommendation:
Cover it and the Pistons with assembly lube, put the tool on loose, where it’s barely compressing the rings, then use the dial to tighten it up, then make sure to push the tool flat against the block before trying to install the piston.
At this point use your hand to push the piston in or like I did knock it in with the plastic handle of a deadblow mallet. You don’t need much force but you do need speed, to get the whole piston in.