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Front Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly 515036 Compatible with GMC Savana 1500 2003-2013 & for Cadillac Escalade EXT 2002-2006 & for Chevrolet Express 1500 2003-2013 Wheel Hub with 6...
*$673.00
National 7607 Wheel Seal
*$263.80
Frete Grátis em todo o BrasilProduto Original Importado dos EUA
FEL-PRO BS 40644 Engine Crankshaft Seal Kit for Ford F-150
*$392.80
Informação adicional
| Brand | Fel-Pro |
|---|---|
| Material | Plastic |
| Item dimensions L x W x H | 5 x 5 x 1 inches |
| Item Weight | 2.56 ounces |
| Bearing Number | BS 40644 |
| Specification Met | Fda |
| Bearing Type | Plain Bearing |
| Compatible Lubricant | Oil |
| UPC | 614046369351 |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00614046369351 |
| Manufacturer | FEL-PRO |
| Product Dimensions | 5 x 5 x 1 inches |
| Country of Origin | USA |
| Item model number | BS 40644 |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | Yes |
| Manufacturer Part Number | BS40644 |
| OEM Part Number | BS40644 |
| Position | Rear |
| Date First Available | August 1, 2006 |
Joseline Roque –
Well I didn’t have this part on my radar. It was suggested that other customers bought this part with the clutch kit I ordered. This was another part I could replace while I had the transmission dropped. I never installed this part before. Thank God for YouTube. It was an exact fix.
C-YAH –
Fast delivery, just what I wanted.
David Lusk –
Very nice at a great price
Bnobles –
This one piece rear main seal (Ford 5.0L casting from 1983 forward) can be installed without a driver if you loosen the rear main bearing cap just a little, then torque it back down. I did that and haven’t had any leaks on my new engine build.
Henry J. Wilkins –
Normally fel pro is my go to for all gaskets. Unfortunately this rear main is now causing me more work. It installed easily with the provided install sleeve. But upon removing the install sleeve the lip of the seal instantly folded back and I could not get it to properly seat. I had to have this car running the next day as it’s my daily driver, so I put everything back together and hoped for the best. We’ll immediately after a short drive it started pissing oil. So now I have a leaky car sitting in my garage that I’m gonna have to drive to work and then tear completely back apart tomorrow and redo the job with a national brand seal. I wouldn’t recommend this seal, unless you like doing jobs twice. 👎🏼
Kinzel Family –
I started noticing oil droplets on my driveway and the transmission appeared wet in oil but it was not red so I knew it was engine oil. Sure enough, the rear seal had a small crack. I used a jack to support the transmission while a buddy removed the old seal and installed the new one. This seal is super easy to install with the tool it includes, slides great and it definitely seals great. I’ve had the seal for 7 months now I believe, and it is working perfectly! No oil leaks!
Emmy –
Had transmission out and was an easy replacement of a rear main seal with this quality one.
Kinzel Family –
For such an important install to get right the first time, there are practically no instructions/illustrations available. My vehicle is a 2000 F150, 5.4 2V L. The pictures pretty much say it all.
**Updated: Aug 17,2023 – Still No Leaks!
1.) PTFE
Make sure you clean the crank off with alcohol. PTFE is a tight lip seal, no spring. The install is dry, no oil or grease allowed. I plan on using a little RTV on the outside but I also read that some grease is allowed to facilitate install. NOT on inside, only outside. Supposedly, the lip of the seal has some type of Teflon material that binds with the crank sometime after initial start.
2.) Seal flaring tool:
The purpose of the plastic cup is to stretch the lip/inner seal a bit during the dry install. After moving the seal over the hump/flare, past the plastic expansion tool, the seal should relax over the crank once reaching the final position. It you don’t use the flaring tool you risk rolling the lip backwards (toward flywheel).
3.) Installation:
As far as seal depth goes, I am going to set it flush with the outside of the cover…1/4 inch back from outside of where flywheel connects to the crank. The old seal set contained a second, factory ‘slinger’ seal, but read that it is not necessary to re-install. The new seal contains a smaller, outer lip that prevents debris intrusion. The aluminum housing was pulled to get both the slinger and the rear main out (probably not necessary, just a pain to get the seals out). I installed (no gasket existed, used rtv) the cover a few days before setting the seal. On YouTube, there are some videos with people installing the seal into the cover before the cover was attached to the engine…that didn’t make too much sense to me. The plate needs special care since you need to use RTV.
BTW: I went to Lowe’s and purchased a PVC cleanout plug to install the seal, 4″, I think. It worked great. Here is a similar product: https://smile.amazon.com/Genova-71840-products/dp/B000BPD95W/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=4%22+PVC+Threaded+Plug&qid=1575852340&sr=8-2
AJ –
Perfect, no leaks!!!