EKYLIN DC 12V Remote Battery Disconnect Switch Latching Relay Anti-Theft Car Auto On Off Solenoid Valve Terminal Master Kill Switch System

413 avaliações para EKYLIN DC 12V Remote Battery Disconnect Switch Latching Relay Anti-Theft Car Auto On Off Solenoid Valve Terminal Master Kill Switch System

1. 

   Avaliação 5 de 5

   Johnny Batten – 5 de março de 2025

   I have a 20 year-old Toyota 4-Runner which I still drive almost every day including 2 recent trips across the entire U.S. My car developed a problem with a recurring battery drain from some unknown source and occasionally would completely drain the battery if left to sit for a few days. First, I installed a kill-switch on the battery terminal and would raise the hood and turn the battery off and on when I wanted to use the SUV. This eventually became more of a nuisance especially if it was raining outside. I got tired of manually turning the battery off and on and looked for a better solution. This switch worked perfectly the first time out of the box.

   The biggest challenge to installing this switch is finding a proper way to mount it and then finding the space under the hood for the installation. In my case, I cut a 6″ by 7″ piece of thick sheet metal, drilled holes for mounting the big electro-mechanical switch and the small remote control box and mounted the plate at the inside end of the battery holding tray. This way all of the wire lengths are pretty short and the installation is compact and clean. I bought a new cable so I would not have to cut the factory installed cable. At some point I will add a manual switch to bypass this device in case it should fail at some point in the future when I am away from home.

   Instructions were concise, accurate, easy to follow and I love this device.

2. 

   Avaliação 4 de 5

   Scott D. – 1 de abril de 2025

   I’ve had this installed well over a year. If you don’t drive your vehicle daily you’ll have a dead battery weekly. It has a bit higher battery draw than stated. I’m getting .013v draw with this installed in addition to factory draw of .005v.

   In my situation I instead learned to troubleshoot the reason I even installed the kill switch, which was a parasitic draw that killed the battery in about 2 days. Turned out to be a relay dealing with the wheelchair lift system.

   Not a bad system for normal people driving daily. Not easy to install. Be sure you have proper wire terminal connectors, and battery post connectors for the different sized wires. I like the battery terminals that cinch down by hand onto the terminal that’s in the pictures.

3. 

   Avaliação 1 de 5

   R. Ladner – 8 de abril de 2025

   It’s not what described, product only comes with a manual on-off switch, not wireless switch, waist of time, please don’t buy this.

4. 

   Avaliação 1 de 5

   R. Ladner – 22 de abril de 2025

   I bought this product as it showed in the photo a remote control unit to operate the switch but when I opened the box there was only a manual switch

5. 

   Avaliação 1 de 5

   joe breskin – 27 de abril de 2025

   This has been good when it’s working, but we’ve had difficulties:

   A) We bought an extra remote fob but could NEVER get it paired. We could never have more than the original fob paired at a time, despite what they told us, plus the seller is almost impossible to get information from;

   B) The instructions are TERRIBLE (obviously written by a non-English speaker and not reviewed by anyone actually trying to pair the device). It has now stopped working and we can’t get a hold of anyone and can’t find a way to re-pair it. We’ve tried with all three of the fobs that we have (the original and the two extra that we purchased). The seller always provides the same five steps when they answer questions here on Amazon, but they are ambiguous and sometimes conflicting procedures (I’ve repeated their “standard” instructions, below, in quotes, with my notes added):

   1. “Hold the pairing button for 8 seconds to re-set the receiver working mode”. (some versions say 5 seconds and some say 8, but either way, the way it REALLY works is that you never know when you’ve “RESET” it? If you hold it the full 8 seconds, as instructed, it goes through the following sequence: when you push it in, the light turns on, then after ~ 3 seconds, it turns off; then another second(?) and it flashes once, then another second(?) it flashes twice (so it’s flashed twice at about the 5 second mark that one version of the instructions says – do you release it now as “RESET?); but if you continue to hold, then at about the 8 or 9 seconds, it flashes three times. So how do you know that it’s “reset”? Or has it gone into directly into the pairing mode (step #2, below)??

   2. “While holding the button for 8 seconds, don’t release the button until the red light flash 3 times (some old version 2 times, please try both). This is to set the working mode for 2 button control mode. (very important)” WELL: this may be very important, but you have no way of knowing whether to wait for the TWO flashes or the THREE flashes and it may or may not be in “pairing mode”, because it never actually pairs??

   3. “Press the pairing button, and the red indicator light will be on”. OK, but once it’s on, do you release the button at that point, BEFORE doing step #4, below or continue to hold WHILE doing the action in step #4, below?? It’s not clear and I’ve tried both and with both the ‘two-flash’ mode and the ‘three-flash’ mode from above, with no success.

   4. “Then press the remote control button (any one of on/off), the receiver will learn the signal code and pair with it.” Well, it doesn’t seem to?? Is there some indication or was a prior step incorrect? How long should you hold down the button on the fob for it to “pair”? just push and release, or hold it UNTIL the light goes off as indicated in step #5, below?

   5. “If the red indicator light is off, then the pairing is OK” IN THEORY, yes, but the light goes off and the fob is apparently not paired, because it’s not enacting the solenoid to connect/disconnect the battery…

   There is no email address or way to communicate and there are obviously a lot of people asking the same questions, but never getting any meaningful answer beyond the “standard (ambiguous) instructions” noted above!!

6. 

   Avaliação 5 de 5

   joe breskin – 6 de maio de 2025

   I got it to solve a draining battery problem on a friend’s Acura, that his mechanic had been unable to troubleshoot. I proposed an under the hood knifeswitch or twist switch, but that was deemed not acceptable. Car is not driven regularly, so the battery would go flat, and the car would need a jumpstart. and killed battteries. A very inconvenient situation, to say the least. If this does not turn out to have completely solved the problem, I will dispense with the wireless trigger (and its “always on” receiver that draws something like 0.008 amps) and simply add a toggle switch to energize the relay. I did not disassemble the high current relay but it feels very very solid. I got 2 remote keyfobs and the second one paired with the receiver without issues. These remotes have a sliding cover that seems like a good idea, to keep it from triggereing accidentally. As the image shows, I mounted it securely to the chassis using one of the car’s McPhereson strut mounting bolts, and I wired it to break the ground rather than the positive battery connection, to minimize the number of heavy gauge wires that I had to add. It is not a perfect solution: the radio’s clock will lose tyrack of time while the battery is disconnected, but that is minor compared to killing batteries and being unable to start. It took me longer to go the the autoparts store and get replacement battery than it took to install the relay.