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Descrição do Produto: EBC Brakes FA174HH Conjunto de Pastilhas de Freio a Disco, Preto
As pastilhas de freio EBC Brakes FA174HH são a escolha ideal para quem busca desempenho e segurança em frenagens. Fabricadas com plataformas de alumínio fundido sob alta pressão, essas pastilhas garantem uma durabilidade excepcional e uma performance superior. Cada par de pastilhas é meticulosamente projetado, com todas as sapatas sendo retificadas em raio e com bordas aparadas, assegurando um encaixe perfeito e uma operação suave.
Com dimensões de embalagem de 15,748 cm de altura, 1,016 cm de comprimento e 12,192 cm de largura, e um peso total de 0,227 kg, o conjunto é compacto e fácil de manusear. Originárias do País de Gales, as pastilhas EBC são sinônimo de qualidade e inovação. O design inclui chanfros de entrada e saída nas extremidades do revestimento, o que melhora a eficiência de frenagem e reduz o ruído durante a operação.
Além disso, o conjunto vem com molas de sapata de estilo original, garantindo que a instalação seja simples e direta, sem a necessidade de adaptações. As pastilhas EBC Brakes FA174HH são ideais para quem não quer comprometer a segurança e a performance do seu veículo.
- Instruções de Uso:
Para utilizar as pastilhas de freio EBC Brakes FA174HH, siga as instruções abaixo:
1. Preparação: Certifique-se de que o veículo está em uma superfície plana e segura. Desconecte a bateria para evitar qualquer curto-circuito.
2. Remoção das Pastilhas Antigas: Remova as rodas e, em seguida, retire as pastilhas de freio antigas, tomando cuidado para não danificar os componentes adjacentes.
3. Instalação das Novas Pastilhas: Insira as novas pastilhas EBC Brakes FA174HH no suporte de freio, garantindo que as molas de sapata estejam corretamente posicionadas.
4. Verificação: Após a instalação, verifique se todas as peças estão firmes e bem ajustadas. Recoloque as rodas e reconecte a bateria.
5. Teste: Realize um teste de frenagem em baixa velocidade para garantir que as pastilhas estão funcionando corretamente antes de utilizar o veículo em alta velocidade.
Características do Produto:
– Material: Plataformas de alumínio fundido sob alta pressão com revestimentos colados.
– Acabamento: Todas as sapatas são retificadas em raio e com bordas aparadas.
– Chanfros: Chanfros de entrada e saída nas extremidades do revestimento para melhor desempenho.
– Molas Inclusas: Molas de sapata de estilo original incluídas para fácil instalação.
– Dimensões da Embalagem: 15,748 cm (altura) x 1,016 cm (comprimento) x 12,192 cm (largura).
– Peso: 0,227 kg.
– Origem: Fabricado no País de Gales.
Perguntas Frequentes (FAQ):
Pergunta: As pastilhas EBC Brakes FA174HH são compatíveis com todos os veículos?
Resposta: As pastilhas EBC Brakes FA174HH são projetadas para uma variedade de modelos, mas é importante verificar a compatibilidade com o seu veículo específico antes da compra.
Pergunta: Como posso saber se preciso trocar minhas pastilhas de freio?
Resposta: Sinais de desgaste incluem ruídos ao frear, vibrações no pedal de freio ou uma diminuição na eficiência de frenagem. Se notar qualquer um desses sinais, é recomendável verificar as pastilhas.
Pergunta: As pastilhas EBC Brakes FA174HH produzem muito ruído?
Resposta: As pastilhas são projetadas com chanfros que ajudam a minimizar o ruído. No entanto, como qualquer pastilha de freio, podem ocorrer ruídos dependendo das condições de uso e do tipo de disco.
Pergunta: Posso instalar as pastilhas de freio eu mesmo?
Resposta: Sim, a instalação pode ser feita por um mecânico experiente ou por você mesmo, seguindo as instruções de uso. Certifique-se de ter as ferramentas adequadas e de seguir todas as precauções de segurança.
Pergunta: Qual é a vida útil esperada das pastilhas EBC Brakes FA174HH?
Resposta: A vida útil das pastilhas pode variar dependendo do estilo de condução e das condições da estrada, mas, em geral, elas são projetadas para oferecer um desempenho duradouro e confiável.
C Phipps –
Installed on a 07 Suzuki V Strom 1000. Perfect fit and improved braking from OEM. Very pleased with the brake pads.
Matthew Voelker –
Great product only it did not say it was going to be an open package. Overall the brakes work well
R. Zamudio –
I purchased these pads on the recommendation of a friend in preparation for a track day on a 2004 Yamaha R6.
The difference in brake response and stopping power between these pads and the OEMs cannot be put into words. I was originally in the mindset that I needed upgraded calipers and rotors to make a stock bike track worthy, but all it took were a set of HH pads and some good street tires. Great! more money left in my pocket for track time. I was out-braking most others in my track group with confidence and even hard braking was predictable without fear of locking up the front tire. It is really great for building up your triceps too!
The only issue I have is not really the fault of the pads but more with the switch on the brake lever that operates the brake light. I ride to work just about every day of the year and these pads allow the bike to stop at public road speeds with far less pull of the brake lever than before. Unless I am making a fairly fast stop from 40-50 mph, there is not enough pull on the brake lever to actuate the brake light switch. I went almost a month without realizing this until another rider pulled up next to me at a red light to let me know my brake light was “out”. I tried adjusting the switch in closer to the lever stop, but no luck. Until I find a fix I am going back to the rider-school basics and am using the front and rear brakes simultaneously since the rear lamp switch works fine.
Like any aggressive brake pad, these are meant to operate best at a higher temperature (not ambient, I mean hard stops on a racetrack without fading) and these will squeak when they are cold. A few hard stops from a decent speed should make it go away for a few days. The squeak on mine comes back after a few weeks of riding on the street after having done a track day. Eventually the thin film of pad material that gets cooked into the rotor during hard riding will get worn off by easy stops on the street and then it is back to pad-on-metal friction instead of pad-on-pad. For more information that you ever wanted to know on how brakes actually work, go to the StopTech Brake website and look at their technical pages. Its great reading for when you are drinking your morning coffee.
Since I have had these pads installed, I have done 7 track days and 300-some days of combined commuting/canyon carving. I am more than pleased, to say the least. Thank goodness they last longer than tires do!
Computerboy –
2007 Honda CB900F 919 Hornet. Beware. These are rear pads and I believe the “HH” at the end of the part number differentiates the “better” pads, from the “regular ones that you might find with a similar part number, but not the “HH” at the end. The rear pads were getting low and I found these at about $10 cheaper than ANY others at Amazon.com, anywhere else online, or locally … $28.50. I think they have raised the price since then (mid July 2012). It’s been a while since I changed brakes on any bike, but the EBC products seem to be everywhere and have good reviews. Some of the photos of the pads around the net show the line up and down, midsection of the pads, but these pads do NOT have that line on the actual pad. Be prepared to do some cleaning and to reuse the backing plates, one plastic and one metal, that are attached to the old pads. I used brake fluid cleaner to clean these parts, but just a regular cleaner and a toothbrush to clean around the piston, spring clips, etcetera. Be aware that there is a metal clip mounted on the caliper assembly mounting bracket that MUST be there when you put the new pads in. Mine had some sticky stuff on the back at one time, but it did come off and I was lucky that I saw it. The job is easy enough. Get a little bucket or something to keep the parts in. You will also need some caliper slide pin grease and some Dot 4 brake fluid. I use Loctite blue also on the caliper bolts, just in case. Take the slotted screw out of the caliper that hides the hex-head to the pin that holds the pads, and then loosen the pad rear attachment pin. I did this while the caliper was still attached to the bike. Then remove the caliper bolts and the caliper. I loosened the cap on the brake reservoir at this point and used a slotted screwdriver to gently, and easily, press the piston back into the caliper. Fortunately, no “extra” fluid had been added previously, so there was no overflowing of fluid, like if you have been topping off the fluid as the pads wore down. I then cleaned all the parts, etcetera, and installed the plastic and metal parts that were attached to the old pads, onto the new ones. I lubricated the caliper bolts with some caliper pin grease and put a drop of Loctite blue on each threaded end. I then positioned the new pads in the caliper and slipped it over the brake disk, making sure the front of each pad was positioned correctly against the front mount and that metal clip. You can easily see if they are simply by looking from either side. I know there is a torque spec for the bolts and such, but I can’t seem to find it right now, sorry about that. I just did mine by feel. Once everything is buttoned back up I attached my new CTA Tools 1250 One-Man brake bleeding Kit (you can also get this product locally for about the same price as online) to the bleeder and used some Valvoline Dot 4 brake fluid (Locally it is only available labeled as Dot 4 AND Dot 3. I did visit the Valvoline site and the specs seem to exceed the manufacturer’s requirements.) to purge and bleed the rear brake until the fluid ran clear. It is so clear, you can barely see it in the reservoir. While doing some research online I saw a clip, at EBC I think, that mentioned NOT overfilling the brake fluid reservoir, as it may cause a loss of braking power. I have personally never heard of this, BUT to err on the side of caution, I made sure the top of the fluid was JUST at the top fill line in the reservoir. The EBC site states that you will have a break in period of a couple of hundred miles. I can only imagine how much BETTER the brakes will be when they are broken in because they work a hundred times better than the old pads did! Be careful starting off in case something isn’t just right, and double check everything in a mile or two.
Scama Casma –
Buena calidad
Hills Runner –
EBC always make great brake pads. Their HH double -sintered pads have fantastic stopping power with low wear characteristics.
Amazon Customer –
Awesome
Terris Wilson –
Perfect fit. 2010 XJ6
Super G –
Sure these brake pads cost more than your average Chinese budget buys, but boy are they worth it!
The difference is quite noticeable in the stopping power and even the general feel of the brakes is much improved, which are noticeably more responsive than the stock pads.
Excellent pads for frequent braking during canyon carving adventures on my Ninja 650.
Oh yeah, they were also a piece of cake to install (thanks YouTube!) and to top it all off they are made in the UK and USA. I am one Happy and Satisfied customer!
Pancake Robot –
This set will out perform the grand majority of stock rear brake pads.
Low brake dust
Great street performance
Quiet
I ride very spirited and feel confident in the pads for the street. They modulate well and do not brake abruptly.