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### Descrição do Produto
A placa de relé DZS Elec 5V-30V é uma solução inovadora e versátil para quem busca controle preciso em aplicações de automação. Com um design robusto e funcionalidades avançadas, este relé de um canal é ideal para projetos que exigem um tempo de atraso ajustável de até 24 segundos. O ajuste do tempo de atraso é feito de forma simples e conveniente através de um potenciômetro, permitindo que o usuário personalize a operação de acordo com suas necessidades específicas.
A DZS Elec oferece duas modalidades de acionamento: a primeira é através de um sinal externo via TRIG, e a segunda é por meio de um botão de acionamento leve, proporcionando flexibilidade na forma como o relé é ativado. Com uma ampla faixa de tensão de trabalho de 5 a 30V, a placa pode ser alimentada tanto por terminais quanto por uma conexão micro USB, facilitando a integração em diversos sistemas.
Além disso, a placa conta com proteção contra sobrecarga, um circuito de pull-up e um terminal de sinal filtrado, que garantem uma forte capacidade de resistência a interferências, tornando-a ideal para aplicações em controle industrial. O indicador de puxada do relé permite que o usuário visualize diretamente o status de operação atual, aumentando a eficiência e a segurança do sistema.
### Instruções de Uso:
Para utilizar a placa de relé DZS Elec, siga os passos abaixo:
1. Conexão de Alimentação: Conecte a fonte de alimentação de 5V a 30V nos terminais apropriados ou utilize um cabo micro USB para alimentação.
2. Ajuste do Tempo de Atraso: Utilize o potenciômetro para ajustar o tempo de atraso desejado entre 0 e 24 segundos.
3. Configuração do Modo de Acionamento: Escolha entre o acionamento por sinal externo (TRIG) ou pelo botão de acionamento leve, conforme a necessidade do seu projeto.
4. Monitoramento: Observe o indicador de puxada do relé para verificar o status de operação.
### Características do Produto
– Ajuste de Tempo: Potenciômetro para ajuste de 0-24 segundos.
– Modos de Acionamento: Acionamento por sinal externo ou botão.
– Tensão de Trabalho: Faixa de 5-30V, com opções de alimentação.
– Proteção Avançada: Circuito de proteção contra sobrecarga e interferências.
– Indicador de Status: Luz indicadora para monitoramento em tempo real.
### Perguntas Frequentes (FAQ)
Pergunta: Qual é a faixa de tensão suportada pela placa?
Resposta: A placa DZS Elec suporta uma faixa de tensão de 5V a 30V, permitindo uma ampla compatibilidade com diferentes sistemas.
Pergunta: Como posso ajustar o tempo de atraso?
Resposta: O tempo de atraso pode ser ajustado facilmente utilizando o potenciômetro localizado na placa, permitindo configurações de 0 a 24 segundos.
Pergunta: Quais são as opções de alimentação disponíveis?
Resposta: A placa pode ser alimentada através de terminais ou por meio de uma conexão micro USB, oferecendo flexibilidade na instalação.
Pergunta: A placa possui proteção contra sobrecarga?
Resposta: Sim, a DZS Elec possui um circuito de proteção contra sobrecarga, garantindo segurança e confiabilidade em aplicações industriais.
Pergunta: Como posso saber se o relé está ativado?
Resposta: A placa conta com um indicador de puxada que acende quando o relé está ativado, permitindo que você monitore facilmente o status de operação.
Jenna Skye –
Product was delivered a few minutes ago. Opened this to wire it to my fireplace, but noticed the white residue on it. Looks to be used or possibly submerged at some point. The device came packaged in a sealed bag, and I don’t see any water in it. So any damage would have been before it was put into the bag.
I also haven’t plugged it in, as I’m still inspecting it to see if I want to chance it. The residue is on both sides (front & back). So far, I’m pretty disappointed. I’ll update this if I decide to keep it and it works. Will also try to contact the seller to get an answer.
FD –
After searching for weeks for a simple and easy way to turn On/Off a Raspberry Pi via a TV and not finding a good solution, I found a simple clean easy inexpensive non-intrusive way via a $8.00 relay switch. If you can do simple wire splicing and know very basic wiring you can do this. Many TV’s/monitors have a USB port so this will work, and as long as when the TV/monitor is turned off and the USB port turns off its 5V USB power, this WILL work.
I can confirm this works on a Hisense 65” 4K TV. When the TV is turned off, after 10-15 min the TV’s USB port turns off also. Other TV’s/monitors may do it immediately or take longer. On some TV’s you may have to go into the power settings or the USB setting and set the port to turn off when the TV is powered off.
Preface: I have all my movies on a Western Digital 4TB portable hard drive that is connected to a Raspberry Pi 4B via USB 3.0, any version of a Pi would work actually. The Pi’s video out goes to the TV’s HDMI in. I am using LebreELEC and only have Kodi installed and loading up. Turning Kodi off is easy via the Kodi ‘s O/S, but the issue was that the Pi can’t be turned back on although power remains plugged in? To me this is useless as you can’t turn it back on! The biggest grip is that although it’s being powered, you can’t turn it back on so being powered has no real purpose (except the clock) other than wasting power even though it’s very low and people say just leave it on. I also prefer to have it completely off as I don’t care about the clock. The popular method everyone seems to use is to plug/unplug it or put a switch on the power USB cable which causes the time to be lost also so apparently many are accepting of this method.
I found many other ways how to make the Pi be able to be turned On/Off; A manual On/Off switch on the power supply, a remote controlled powered On/Off switch on the power outlet, plug/unplug the power supply (the lamest), add on boards, IR diodes, add on boards that you have to install software or some add on boards to the GPO which take up space inside the Pi case which is already very limited. I rather leave all that open and available for other things as inside the case there is not a lot of room. I wanted no additional remotes, or deal with software or drilling the case (I have a FLIRC case) for IR’s or have any wires coming out the case. This method also does not interfere with the board itself, gives the box a clan appearance, does not need to use any additional power off the board or cause heat or amp loading issues and is very easy to do.
So cutting the power gave me an idea to use the TV’s 5V USB port as a trigger/power supply. Someone may ask why not run the hard drive directly through the TV? I can, but the media center the TV has built in is awful, a far cry from being able to manage anything or be useful as a media center, no artwork, or movie info being Roku. I can run the Pi off the TV USB port, but only by itself as the TV’s USB port does not have enough amps to drive both devices at once, just not enough amps.
The solution was this relay switch: DZS Elec 5V-30V I channel Wilde Voltage Adjustable Relay Switch
Setup:
1. All that is needed to be modified on the relay switch itself is to remove/unsolder the momentary button trigger and solder a wire across the switch to have a continuous closed contact across the switch. This will keep the relay switch On as long as there is power via the 5V input of the Micro USB 5V input.
2. Connect a USB cable from the switch’s Micro USB input 5V to the TV’s USB port.
3. The third part is to take the power cable you are using to power your Pi and tap or cut it to get to one line, either Red or Black. Tapping is best so you can leave all the other wires intact as they will not be used. You only need to tap or cut/use ONE line, either the Red or Black, but not both! All other wires may be left alone or taped off. Take ONE of the cut lines (ie: Red), and connect one side of that cut line to the COM (Public COM) terminal on the relay switch terminal and the OTHER side of that cut Red wire to the NO (Normally Open NO) terminal. If you cut the Red, do not cut the Black wire, leave the back wire alone as all the other wires in the power cable as they are not to be used. If you look at the diagram, you would simply take both ends of the ONE cut wire’s two ends (Red for example) and connect one side of the cut wire to the terminal named Public COM and the other cut side of the wire to the Normally Open NO terminal.
Note: You will NOT use the Normally Closed terminal (NC). You do not need to worry about the relay time setting of 0~24 either as it will be bypassed due to closing of the button trigger switch. You also Do Not need to connect anything else to power the relay ie: trigger (TRIG) low level trigger or the terminals labeled Input + or Input – as they are not used when you connect a Micro SUB 5V input cable as they are just an alternative power input.
Running/Using: Plug the power cable into the power supply and the Pi itself that was powering the Pi (on both ends) and connect the relay switch’s 5V USB input power supply to the TV’s USB port. When you turn on the TV, the USB port of the TV will energize the relay switch and power the Pi via the Micro USB input 5V. The light on the relay will turn on and stay on. This should load up or whatever you are using as an O/S, LibreELEC/Kodi in my case.
After you are done for the day/night and ready to power off Kodi, use the O/S to power off, wait for the TV to show there is no signal on your input (whatever port you are using as an input) and then when you turn off the TV, it will turn off the TV’s USB port removing power to the relay switch which will power off the Pi.
I hope this helps someone who is looking for a simple inexpensive reliable solid way to turn on and off their Pi. As I mentioned, I can confirm this works on a Hisense 65” 4K TV. When the TV is turned off, after 10-15 min the TV’s USB port turns off also. Other TV’s/monitors may do it immediately or take longer. On some TV’s you may have to go into the power settings or the USB setting and set the port to turn off when the TV is powered off.
Enjoy!
D_Sama –
After seeing that video in youtube, I had to make my fireplace smart too, well, semi-smart. This is the first time doing something like this and thanks to this little unit, everything worked. I don’t know much about the unit itself or can criticize its build and quality as in comparison as Simone who is always tinkering and building stuff, but for a first time user, it was pretty easy to set up. I’m happy and I’ll be seeing what other things I can make.
Jenna Skye –
Works great on garage door with a wifi plug I was using with a Wyze plug until a power outage and when the power come back on and the plug booted back up it must put a short burst of power to the plug and then energizing the module so then it opens the door (not good if your not home) so I tried it with a Amazon plug and it works ok. Does anyone know a work around on the Wyze plug or a different module to use. Like I said the module works great. (So if you are doing what I am with a wifi plug you mite check if yours opens after a power outage don’t find out the hard way like I did)
MTaylor –
A bit misleading… I should have read through all the reviews and product information more thoroughly. This is not a “USB Relay” This is a USB “Powered” Relay with no data connection capabilities of the USB. You can only use the micro USB port for power, not for controlling the relay. Wish I had known this before purchasing as I need to specifically control a USB wired relay from a single USB plug. As other reviews mention, the device works as it is intended to work. I just wish the description was a little more clear to help users avoid making the same mistake I did.
H. Hand –
Used this product along with my own USB adapter and smart plug to control our fireplace with Alexa. Working great so far and would buy again if needed.
LHS –
Perfect for turning my Fireplace on/ off using a Wi-Fi outlet & Alexa commands. Followed simple YouTube instructions, works perfectly. I need to design a way to set flame on high or low using Alexis.
Me –
More bells and whistles than I needed, but great for controlling my millivolt fireplace via this combined with a USB charger and a WeMo mini.
I soldered a connection between the trigger and -volt points and then connected wires between common and NO terminals to my normal fireplace control.
Set a rule to turn off the wemo after 30 minutes and this makes sure we don’t leave the fireplace on longer than needed. I could wire up a thermostat to the control and let it manage everything, but there is no convenient place for a thermostat in this room.
My other fireplace works this way and doesn’t need the auto off feature.
Both have temperature controlled fans, these all make a very nice addition to my Alexa Home controls.
Ben Kress –
Works perfectly just what I was looking for