- Ideal replacement – this exhaust manifold was precision-engineered and durably manufactured to match the fit and function of the stock manifold on specified vehicles
- Reliable construction – durable materials resist warping, cracking and leaking for long-lasting performance
- Complete repair – includes all necessary gaskets and downpipe hardware
- Trustworthy design – built by industry leader in aftermarket manifolds
- Ensure fit – to make sure this part fits your exact vehicle, input your make, model and trim level into the garage tool


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Dorman 674-398 Passenger Side Exhaust Manifold Kit – Includes Required Gaskets and Hardware Compatible with Select Ford / Lincoln Models
*$1,332.40
Informação adicional
Manufacturer | Dorman Products |
---|---|
Brand | Dorman |
Model | Manifold |
Item Weight | 9 pounds |
Product Dimensions | 19.88 x 8.63 x 5.63 inches |
Country of Origin | USA |
Item model number | 674-398 |
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
Exterior | Painted |
Manufacturer Part Number | 674-398 |
OEM Part Number | 101204, 651388, 662893, 674398, SK674398, F75Z 9430-HB, XC2Z-9430-BA |
Hollander Number | 327-1802 |
Bolt Pattern Number of Holes | 5 |
Date First Available | July 7, 2004 |
Ian Cognitos –
Perfect! Arrived faster than expected. Quality product.
kcd –
I bought this to replace my ’99 F-250 5.4’s passenger side manifold as I had an exhaust leak. I tried as best as I could to get OEM, but it looks like they just don’t make OEM anymore (that I could find), so I settled on this. It looks like it’s a decent casting, but when I took a straight edge, and my feeler gauges to it, it’s about .015 warped. I expected better as I DO NOT want to do this job again any time soon due to a cracked manifold caused by a poor casting! The gasket that came with it is pathetically thin and not even near the OEM gasket quality, so that goes straight in the trash as do the flange bolts.
Here’s what I’m doing to (hopefully) do the job right:
– spend a lot of time sanding the mating surface flat with some tempered glass and sandpaper ($30 not including the tempered glass)
– trash the included gasket and use a quality gasket (MAHLE MS19535 in my case – $40)
– trash the included flange bolts and use some more reputable flange bolts (Fel-Pro – $25)
– ARP stainless steel studs
– anti-seize everything
– heat cycle it all a time or two then come back and re-torque everything
I understand trying to hit a price point, but I am absolutely willing to spend an additional $50 for a quality, properly flat, casting and some decent gaskets/hardware if it means I don’t have to do this job again for another 10 – 20 years. The quality of this stuff, in stock form, and I’d be surprised if you’d even get 3 years out of it without a cracked manifold and/or blown exhaust gasket.
RC –
Great replacement for original that was cracked
Wayne S. –
Fit like a glove.
Shah –
PERFECT FIT
Walt –
Fit perfectly on my 1997 F250 5.4L 4×4. Runs great no leaks.
KBPowell –
These cast iron Dorman Exhaust Manifolds are high quality, fit perfect and are a very good alternative to more expensive Ford manifolds. They are made in China, but to Dorman’s specifications. I write this review almost 5 years after first installing this Dorman manifold on my 1998 Expedition. The reason for giving it only four stars is because of the manifold gasket that Dorman supplies with it. I provide a strong recommendation to NOT USE IT. Instead use metal laminated gaskets made by MAHLE (they actually make the OEM gaskets for Ford).
I’ve done my own car maintenance for decades and do thorough, high quality work. I’ve gone as far as rebuilding engines and manual transmissions, always with great results. I state this to provide credibility for this review. I typically look for quality aftermarket parts that are more reasonably priced as long as they are of good quality. In this case I learned that OEM is the best path for some parts. That said, a manifold is an easy part for aftermarket companies like Dorman to replicate with equal or higher quality.
Almost 5 years ago I had the typical Expedition exhaust leaks at the manifold because of rusted manifold studs, on both left and right sides. I replaced everything with Dorman parts: manifolds, gaskets, and studs/nuts in a Dorman stud kit. Under normal usage, the exhaust leak came back on the right side. Because of the short time frame I feared that a stud broke (they were torqued to Ford specifications). After inspection, I found all studs/nuts were fine, although rusted, and that the gasket completely BLEW OUT on the rear cylinder – in less than 5 years. After removing the manifold, I found the Dorman gasket was badly deteriorated and falling apart between the exhaust ports. So DON’T USE THEM. I wouldn’t use any fiber based gasket here even though I’ve used them on other vehicles over the years with no issues. In this case use the style that is of an OEM design.
I also recommend Ford OEM (revised) manifold studs, and nuts. Because they have corrected this problem and the fact that I had two severely rusted Dorman studs wring-off just below the nut during removal. If this happens, they should be able to be easily removed with a quality stud extractor. Ford issued a Technical Service Bulletin for exhaust manifold studs on March 3, 2005. TSB #0554 specifies to replace them with stainless steel studs. These revised Ford studs are actually copper plated stainless steel (Made in USA). The revised Ford nuts are black oxide plated steel flanged locknuts (Made in USA).
Parts List:
Dorman # 674-398 Exhaust Manifold, Right Side, on Amazon
MAHLE # MS19535 Exhaust Manifold Gaskets, on Amazon
Ford # W703902-S403 Exhaust Manifold Studs, on Amazon through resellers
Ford # W701706-S2 Exhaust Manifold Nuts, on Amazon through resellers
Permatex # 77134 Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant (for stud threads into head), on Amazon
Mayhugh # 29895 Stud Extractor, on Amazon
Remove and install new components, making sure to torque studs and nuts to Ford specifications, and tighten nuts in the proper sequence. This also applies to replacement of the Left Side Exhaust Manifold, Dorman # 674-399 available on Amazon.
*Helpful Note: Leave out bottom left stud (closest to firewall) until after the new manifold is in place. It’s almost impossible with this stud installed in advance.
Alan Skidmore –
I recently purchased a 1998 Ford Expedition 4X4 with the 5.4 Triton engine to replace my older SUV that had seen better days. About a month after getting the Expedition, it developed the notorious exhaust gasket leak these vehicles are well known for. Now the gaskets on this vehicle had been replaced about five years earlier, however, they were now leaking again. Not really wanting to put more money into the truck, but the noise was getting noticeable and somewhat embarrassing.
So after finding a mechanic willing to do the work, I decided to not only replaces the gaskets, but to replace the headers as well. This turned out to be a good decision. (The headers on the truck were rusted quite bad and were near the end of their life anyway) As a side note, I had seriously considered installing shorty style headers with the assumption they might improve my gas mileage. But after talking with numerous people who work on these trucks, they unanimously agreed that shorty headers on this particular vehicle would not be a good investment, and most likely the shorty headers would start leaking again in the near future. So factory style headers it was.
I took these headers to the mechanic and he was very pleased with the appearance of these headers. It took him about 6 hours to replace both passenger and driver side headers along with replacing the studs. I helped speed up this procedure by spraying penetrating oil on all the studs for a week prior to installing the headers. Usually this job can be a royal pain and is not recommended to be taken on by the shade tree mechanic without the proper tools.
The mechanic told me these headers were nearly twice as thick as the factory headers and were very well made. He also said I should not have to worry about these headers for at least ten years. While this is a good truck, and I am sure I will have long sold the truck by then.
The only thing he didn’t like were the gaskets that came with the headers. He felt they were a bit cheap and felt they would not hold up long term. He suggested getting the new style Ford gaskets which are made of metal. I told him to install the Ford gaskets as I didn’t want to have to have this work done again. Those gaskets are about $120 alone. Not cheap, but considering everything, part of the expense and I shouldn’t have to worry about this again.
Since installing the headers, the truck is obviously much, much quieter and I seem to feel a bit of increase in power. Not sure of any mileage gain at this point.
All in all I would highly recommend these headers as a factory style replacement to anyone facing this project with the 5.4 Triton Engine.