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- Efficient Fuel Consumption
- Fit type: Vehicle Specific
- Package Dimensions: 5.588 H x 16.002 L x 5.842 W (centimetres)
- Package Weight: 0.1 pounds
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Denso 234-9050 Oxygen Sensor (Air and Fuel Ratio Sensor) – 5.8 x 1.8 x 1.9 inches
*$1,565.60
Informação adicional
| Brand | DENSO |
|---|---|
| Item dimensions L x W x H | 5.8 x 1.8 x 1.9 inches |
| Material | Zirconium |
| Item Weight | 1.6 ounces |
| Mounting Type | Threaded |
| Output Type | Push-Pull |
| Specific Uses For Product | Electronics |
| Upper Temperature Rating | 1.2E+3 Degrees Fahrenheit |
| UPC | 042511112872 |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00042511112872 |
| Manufacturer | Denso |
| Style | Modern |
| Model | Oxygen Sensor |
| Product Dimensions | 5.8 x 1.8 x 1.9 inches |
| Country of Origin | China |
| Item model number | 234-9050 |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Exterior | Machined |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 234-9050 |
| OEM Part Number | 234-9050 |
| Date First Available | January 2, 2007 |
Persistent Sea –
This is the oxygen sensor fit for the 2GR-FE toyota V6 engine.
This is the: Bank 1, Sensor 1, Right side.
The statement is the corresponding physical position of the hole it goes in.
Bank 1= the row of cylinders that has the number 1 piston.
Bank 2= the row of cylinders that does not have the number 1 piston.
Sensor 1= the hole it goes in is before the catalytic converter (Upstream of the converter)
Sensor 2= the hole it goes in is after the catalytic converter (Downstream of the converter)
SO> this sensor is the one that, on the 2006 Avalon is:
The one between the engine and the firewall. (that’s the Right side)
Not the Easy one between the engine and the radiator. Sorry about your luck.
It is found and serviced only from underneath,– but to get to disconnect that thing you will have to remove the top:
Windshield wipers, the plastic grill under it, the windshield wiper motor, and the metal cowling under that.
You will then have the access to unclip it. It’s behind the intake manifold. If you find and easier way, Let Us All Know.
Take a string and tie it to the sensor side wire connector before it goes down; use it as a guide to pull the new one up.
The top stuff is not as bad as it sounds, you will need a 10mm and 14mm socket with extension, it goes kind of fast.
There is a you tube about it.
From the underside:
The sensor itself will need a 7/8 (or 22mm) BOX End wrench or the special socket with the split down the side.
I got away with the box end, you will Not get away with an open end- do not use.
When halfway out it may lock up for no good reason, use penetrating oil, and work back and forth until it comes free.
There is a clip in the middle for mounting and isolating the harness, rip the old one off and this just pushes in.
Put the copper sealant/anti seize on the threads.
The item is the EXACT fit from the mfr. and Well worth the money.
2 attempts:
1st attempt- 5hrs (2.75hrs trying to unclip the connector) installed wrong sensor- downstream 🙁
2nd attempt- 1.5hrs (not trying to unclip the connector)
Amazon Customer –
Well, I got it. Installed with my new catalytic converted. Looks like they’re working fine. I purchased For my other vehicles , never had a problem
Amazon Customer –
It arrived one day before expected arrival. The product is the exact replacement as ordered. I only wish it is cheaper but otherwise I am very happy with the transaction. Installation is a little challenging and needed removal/reinstall of other items to connect the plug but doable by an amateur mechanic with a little study before taking on the task.
Ron Newton –
Much cheaper than Toyota ….Works as good.
Runningonmt –
Was nursing a P0138 code on my 2010 2.7l Tacoma for over two years. Code suggested my rear 02 sensor was bad but had changed that out. Code suggested could be other problems too. Turns out it was the front a/f sensor sending no signal to the ECU. With no a/f sensor signal the rear 02 sensor was fooled sending a P0138 code. Heater circuit on the old a/f sensor tested good…..signal circuit was dead. Replaced a/f sensor with this new Denso unit now all is good.
Shadow –
Excellent OEM Air fuel ratio sensor for my 2007 Tacoma 2.7L. I am hoping this one lasts since the other no name one for sale (for this same fitment) on Amazon died on me within 16 months. Of course 4 months past warranty. I should have went with the Denso to begin with cheap parts….cheap results. This one is a perfect fit and easy to install. Just get an Oxygen sensor socket first.
P. S. Ross –
This is the correct front a/f or front O2 sensor for a 2012 Tacoma. I was fighting a P0138 code, which is high voltage on the REAR sensor. Replacing the rear sensor didn’t help. However, when I replaced the front sensor, that took care of it. Seems that the front sensor was off, causing the engine to run rich, causing the ECU to think the downstream sensor was off. In researching this particular code, it seems about 40% end up having a faulty front sensor, about 40% a faulty rear sensor, and 20% just replace both sensors at the same time and are done with it. Anyway I ended up replacing both front and rear sensors and that cleared the code and allowed the ECU to complete its diagnostic cycle. At which point it was finally able to asses the Catalytic Converter efficiency, found it too low, and it threw a P0420 code. Heads up Taco Lovers. There is a recall on 20-10 to 2014 2.7 Tacoma’s for bad catalytic converters. Fortunately, mine was still outstanding and my dealer replaced both of my cats for free, FINALLY clearing the code. Good deal.
Amazon Customer –
Product good wrong part number they send you
John Meadows –
OEM for Toyota. The old one was tough to get out, but once out the new one fit right in. When you plug in the wire harness, it’s a bit awkward since you’re doing it mostly blind, but not a big deal. It seems to have taken care of the thrown code. Some advice, if you get the P 038 code, just go ahead and change both sensors. I only have two to replace in my 2007 Toyota Tacoma 2.7 engine. It would be more expensive for the 6 and 8 cylinders. The shop that read the code wanted $800 dollars to replace this one air/fuel sensor. It took a friend and me just about an hour and that’s going back to his house to get a tool.
Mcaughey –
I bought this 02 sensor for my 08 Toyota Tacoma when my check engine light came on last week and a scan tool confirmed the sensor heater went bad. This is usually a prelude to the sensor failing completely, and just loosing the heater function will make your vehicle run rough. This is the upstream or primary sensor which tells the engine computer how to adjust the fuel/air mixture for optimal performance. This sensor’s plug will fit in most Toyota vehicles so there’s no cutting of the plug or wires ( denso calls it first time fit for a reason ) it was not difficult to do this job but I did need a floor jack, a place to work and a few basic hand tools ( your going to need a 22mm regular wrench due to space issues on the 4cyl Tacomas ). There’s no space for one of those sensor sockets either. To access the plugs on a 2.7 you’ll need to pull up those fasteners on that rubber sheet behind the right side tire. You’ll need a screwdriver to get under the plugs locking piece and you’ll have to pull kinda hard. Once the sensor is unplugged then it’s just turn it left and out ( it will be stiff if it’s older) once out discard and get your new part. Once your ready to install the new sensor use the provided copper based high temp antiseize compound and pack the threads of the new sensor, get it started by hand and bottom it out ( avoid getting antiseize compound onto the sensor head. Once it’s in tightened it down, start the process of clearing your MIL lamp ( 3 cycles of the key clears it). Drive around knowing you fixed it