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Denso 234-4797 Oxygen Sensor
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Informação adicional
| Brand | DENSO |
|---|---|
| Material | Zirconium |
| Measurement Accuracy | High |
| Measuring Range | 0-20% O2 |
| Mounting Type | Flange Mount |
| Output Type | Push-Pull |
| Specific Uses For Product | Oxygen Sensor |
| UPC | 042511112438 |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00042511112438 |
| Manufacturer | Denso |
| Style | Modern |
| Model | Oxygen Sensor |
| Item Weight | 4.8 ounces |
| Item model number | 234-4797 |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Exterior | Machined |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 234-4797 |
| Position | Rear |
| Date First Available | January 2, 2007 |
Amazon Customer –
Worked OK in my Honda Accord 2005.
Jose luis –
Le quedó perfecto, lo recomiendo
Scott Wilson –
This fit right in place perfectly, just pop the clips off the old sensor and put in place on new sensor, thread the sensor into catalytic converter, pop clips into existing holes in frame and fit the rubber boot (grommet) in the floor under the passenger seat where the old sensor was and plug in. The rubber boot is already installed on the new sensor and fits perfectly.
eduardo –
Funciono a la perfección se borró la falla del tablero de instrumentos al momento de remplazarlo…. tengo ya poco mas de 1 año con el sensor instalado y funciona a la perfección DENSO es el remplazo original para ese auto solo que mucho mucho mas accesible que los precios inflados de la agencia por el mismo producto en diferente empaque
Mikey –
I installed this on my 2007 Accord 2.4 49 state (non-CA) car. Works perfectly. Easy to install.
Denso makes the OEM Honda sensor but this one is made by Denso’s aftermarket division. The sensor is almost the same but it’s not identical. The hole pattern in the sensor itself is different but I don’t think that will affect its function.
The wire is missing the rubber sleeves that clip into the plastic wire brackets on the car. This makes the wire loose and easy to come out. My recommendation is to line up the old wire with the new wire and wrap some extra electrical tape around the locations where the rubber sleeves are located. This will thicken up the wire so that it fits snugly on the wire bracket.
DG –
I did much research on this.
On my 03 accord I was getting “check engine” light. Checked the code with OBD reader it was PO141 which is Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (sensor 2).
The consensus in different Honda forums is the after market sensors from your local auto parts franchise don’t last. So with that said, the price from local Honda dealer was about $115 or online from dealers that sell discounted over the internet was about $80 with shipping.
In pricing this part I found that Denso is supplier to Honda for this part. The part I took off my Accord (original part from factory) even has Denso name on it.
I figured if I was paying for a Denso part from a Honda dealer I would buy it from Amazon for at the time […]
I can report that it was a perfect fit. It does come with the rubber grommet on the wiring harness for the floor board, just as the Honda OE part.
It has been on the car a little over a month and everything is good, no “check engine” light.
If the part fails in future I will try to update this review.
Hope this helps someone.
A. Schmidt –
I recently had my catalytic converter replaced on my 2006 4 cyl. Honda Accord and they recommended I fix the o2 sensor that plugs into the converter. I found it here and purchased based on the reviews. Upon receiving, I opened it to find the sensor, anti-seize lube, and directions.
After I removed the old o2 sensor, I compared them side-by-side and found them to not be identical. Mainly, the wiring cover is not as thick as the old one. It doesn’t snap into the clips that hold it in place. The tip of the sensor on the new one also has more holes (which may be a good thing). With that being said, you can still place the wiring onto the clips, and because they are facing up, it shouldn’t be a problem. And since I’ve only owned this car a few months, I have no way of knowing if the old one was a OEM part or if Denso just makes them differently now. Either way, I feel comfortable installing based on the reviews here.
The installation itself went fairly smoothly. Before you begin, make sure to purchase here or rent the o2 sensor socket set at AutoZone because you will need them. The only one in the set that fit in the space was the Powerbuilt 648691 Oxygen Sensor Offset Puller. Also, make sure your wrench is long enough because you will need the leverage to get the old one off. And when you need to get under the passenger seat, just unbolt the seat and tilt it back. It’s a lot easier and more accessible than trying to maneuver underneath the seat in a tight space. There was more than enough anti-seize and everything screwed/clicked into place just fine.
My check engine light was not on for the sensor, but everything is running good so I can say as of right now that this was a great and affordable buy. If anything changes in the next year or so I’ll be sure to update. If you are on the fence on doing it yourself, just look up a couple YouTube videos and follow the tips from the reviews here and you’ll be fine. This was my first time and it was a lot easier than I expected.
ERNEST CORBIN –
Got quick from the seller. Easy install and cleared my codes
Art the Science Guy –
I just installed this Oxygen sensor in my daughter’s Honda Accord and it was easy! I bought the special wrench Powerbuilt 648442 1/2″ Wrench and 7/8″ Drive Oxygen Sensor Sockets and had no trouble removing the old sensor. I did spray Gunk L106 Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil on the sensor which is located on the right side of the catalytic converter the night before I removed the sensor and the next morning it came out with little struggle. This part is an exact fit – grommet and all. It is connected by a plug which is located under the passenger seat which has to be removed but it is held in place by 4 bolts, 2 in front and 2 behind the seat so the job is easy with a socket wrench. It even comes with anti-seize compound which you sparingly put on the threads of the sensor ONLY. Then you insert the new sensor into the catalytic converter and twist it in by hand allowing the wire to rotate freely so it doesn’t twist as you turn the sensor. Then tighten it with the slotted socket taking care to seat it properly over the sensor before tightening. After that you place the wire back into the two wire clips that keep it away from the heat shield and slide the grommet sideways into the hole under the seat where the other grommet was and then pop it into place in the floor, re-install the seat with the 4 bolts and you’re almost done. To reset the “check engine” warning light you need to disconnect the negative battery terminal for a few moments but remember that you will need the security code for your radio once you reconnect the battery. When you turn the radio back on, it will say “cOdE” and if you still have the card that came with your card or if the sticker with the code is still in your glove box (usually on the left side of the door)just enter the five digit number and you’re set. If you can not find it your Honda service department can provide it but you will need the serial number of your radio which you can locate by pressing the 1 and 6 button on your radio simultaneously and the serial# will appear on the display with the first five numbers (it will say upper)followed by the second five numbers (it will say lower) – write it down. You provide this ten number serial number to the dealer and they can give you the proper code for your radio which you input using the six numbered buttons on the radio for preset stations and cd’s. If you did everything correctly, the check engine light should now be off and stay off unless of course there is another code you need to attend to and the radio should work just fine. Good luck!