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Descrição do Produto: BWM 101 – Hi-Temp Paste Wax (BWM 1000P) – Lata de 14,5 oz
O BWM 101 – Hi-Temp Paste Wax é a solução ideal para quem busca um acabamento de alta qualidade e durabilidade para seus veículos, barcos e trailers. Com uma fórmula avançada, este produto proporciona um brilho intenso, semelhante ao de um carro novo, que não apenas embeleza, mas também protege. A cera em pasta é especialmente formulada para resistir a climas quentes, garantindo que a beleza do seu veículo permaneça intacta mesmo sob as condições mais adversas.
Ao aplicar o BWM 101, você notará que ele deixa uma película durável que é resistente a raios UV, água dura e outros elementos naturais que podem danificar a superfície do seu veículo. Isso significa que, além de um acabamento brilhante, você está investindo na proteção a longo prazo da pintura e da superfície do seu carro, barco ou RV. Este produto é também compatível com as regulamentações de VOC da Califórnia, assegurando que você está utilizando uma cera que respeita o meio ambiente.
Vale ressaltar que o BWM 101 era anteriormente conhecido como BWM 1000P. A mudança de nome foi feita para evitar confusões com o nosso produto de liberação de moldes 1000P, mas a qualidade e a eficácia permanecem inalteradas.
Instruções de Uso:
1. Certifique-se de que a superfície do veículo esteja limpa e seca antes da aplicação.
2. Com um aplicador de espuma ou um pano macio, aplique uma camada fina e uniforme de BWM 101 sobre a superfície desejada.
3. Deixe a cera secar por alguns minutos até que uma leve película se forme.
4. Utilize um pano limpo e seco para polir a superfície, removendo o excesso e revelando o brilho intenso.
5. Para melhores resultados, aplique em áreas pequenas de cada vez e repita o processo conforme necessário.
Características do Produto:
– Fórmula de Alta Temperatura: Desenvolvida para suportar condições climáticas extremas, ideal para regiões quentes.
– Brilho Intenso: Proporciona um acabamento de alta gloss que realça a cor e a profundidade da pintura.
– Proteção UV: A película resistente protege contra os danos causados pelos raios solares.
– Resistência à Água Dura: Mantém a superfície limpa e livre de manchas causadas por água dura.
– Conformidade com VOC: Atende às normas ambientais da Califórnia, garantindo segurança e responsabilidade ambiental.
Perguntas Frequentes (FAQ):
Pergunta: O BWM 101 pode ser usado em todos os tipos de pintura?
Resposta: Sim, o BWM 101 é seguro para uso em todos os tipos de pintura automotiva, incluindo acabamentos metálicos e perolados.
Pergunta: Com que frequência devo aplicar a cera?
Resposta: Para manter a proteção e o brilho, recomenda-se aplicar a cera a cada 3 a 6 meses, dependendo das condições climáticas e do uso do veículo.
Pergunta: Posso usar o BWM 101 em superfícies de plástico ou vinil?
Resposta: O BWM 101 é projetado principalmente para superfícies pintadas. Para plásticos e vinis, recomenda-se o uso de produtos específicos para esses materiais.
Pergunta: A cera é resistente à chuva?
Resposta: Sim, a película formada pelo BWM 101 oferece resistência à água, ajudando a repelir a chuva e a sujeira.
Pergunta: O que devo fazer se a cera ficar difícil de remover?
Resposta: Se a cera secar demais, umedeça levemente a superfície com água e use um pano macio para facilitar a remoção.
Randy – Pgh, PA –
FK-1000P – my absolute favorite paint sealant. Yes, it is labeled as a wax, but it is really a sealant – and will out-protect, out-last any “wax”. I was introduced to this product via several professional auto detailing groups. Apparently, this product was originally engineered and marketed to the marine/boating industry. At some point, somebody tried it on automotive finishes, and the rest is “history”.
Seriously – I have used many brands and formulations of sealants and waxes from the cheap “Turtle Wax” to some rather expensive professional finishing products. None give the shine and durability of Finish Kare! As with any sealant (or wax), prep is urgent if you want a really good, protective finish. But when applied to nice, clean, and level paint – the results are truly great! Somewhat wet-look gloss that not only beads water, bu makes washing a breeze – pretty much nothing will stick! Pollen – nope. Bird droppings? nope. And most all of it rinses off easily.
I use this on pretty much every vehicle I detail – and it does a great job every time. Just remember – this is not a “polish” – it has no abrasives, it simply seals the paint and protects it. On my Ram 1500 (white), a good application still beads and repels dirt 10-12 months later! This is a close to a “once-per-year” finish as I’ve ever encountered. At a typical $20 per can, this puts it in the high end of consumer price-range products, or the low-end of pro-line products (though good luck finding it locally!)
But this product works best when applied VERY thinly. A little dab goes a LONG way! I believe my most recent can that this order was to replenish, has done a BUNCH of vehicles – from two church vans, three pickup trucks (full-size), two minivans, and more cars than I can count. So this shapes up to be an incredible value!
lacro –
Hi all! Long review – sorry…
I tripped over this product via some detailing forums. I was drawn to it because it got REALLY good reviews for some specific characteristics: Durability; High-Heat Resistance; Bird-Bomb Resistance; ability to do multiple applications in one session, and the “appearance of adding an additional layer of clear coat.”
First the setup: Vehicle is a 2005 Toyota product, in Black Cherry Pearl. It’s a daily driver that sits outside. The paint has bird stains and acid rain etching IN the paint, and the clear coat is iffy, so compounding, etc., isn’t going to happen. Spot polishing only. My goal isn’t to make it look new; it’s to make it look not 12 years old (it’s an early ’05).
Previously, the car had had Meguiar’s M07 glaze applied, and sealed in with NXT liquid. Surface was still nice from a previous claying, so that step wasn’t necessary.
About 2 weeks after that, the car was washed, and had 2 coats of FK1000P applied. From what I read online, you can apply, wait 20 minutes, buff off, then reapply, so that’s what I did. Twenty minutes later, buff it off again. I do it in sections, so I don’t have to lay across freshly applied product.
Pass the applicator through a MIST of water from a spray bottle, and pat it against a cloth to remove even the excess from that. That’s all the pad dampening I found I needed. A couple of quick swipes/swirls in the tin, and you’re ready. (Applicator info at the end of the review.)
It went on nice and THIN – that’s important – THIN. Globbing it on is a waste, since most of it gets buffed off anyway.
It DOES take a couple of days for the product to cure, and just like the reviews say, it DOES look like a coat of glass has been laid on the paint!
Two weeks later, I washed and applied more. The hope is that it’ll bond to itself, or that if I missed a spot, I’ll catch it this time around. That glass-coated look IS addictive!
I got out early. Washed the car about sunrise, so I could be done before the sun got too high and heated up the metal. I got the roof, hood and hatch done before the sun could get them too warm. Of course, the sun came up, and got hotter than I expected, and made me more miserable than I usually am, so I started getting careless.
USER ERROR: I put it on the side panels too thick. I knew it was too thick, but just wanted to get done. Only did 1 coat this time.
After 20 minutes, I buffed it off. It WAS more work, and there was a bit of dust, unlike the previous application – again, MY fault – but it was NOT the nightmare some would have you believe. Just don’t cake it on. First, go over it to break up the haze, then flip the towel – or use a second one – to remove the rest. If too much has been applied, and you get the dust, just wipe some more with the towel to pick it up. NOT a deal-breaker.
Shiny!
A few days after the glassiness occurred, I noticed “streaks.” It looked like I hadn’t buffed it all off, and that’s EXACTLY it. I guess that’s the “pseudo-holograms” I read about. Okay; annoying. I sprayed some water on, and some Meg’s Ultimate Quick Detailer (all synthetic; no carnauba), then wiped it down. Remember: not in direct sun. Streaks gone, and when the sun came up, I was looking at the neighbor’s house in my fender!
Observations:
1.) Put it on THIN, for easiest buffing.
2.) A few days later (3-ish?) it’ll look like a coat of glass was applied.
3.) Water beads like crazy, but doesn’t seem to be in any hurry to leave. During the week of the first application, there was pollen – I think – on the car – could’ve just been the “litter” off the pine trees, and I wasn’t sure when I’d get to washing, so I took it to a local self-serve pressure washer place. Using just rinse, it blew the dirt off, of course, and the water beaded up and ran down the sides, until I stopped. Drove home, and the beads were still on the car. Never seen that before… Car’s protected, and was actually VERY shiny even through the dirt.
4.) Bird bombs. Nasty little creatures expelling material that’s acidic enough to dissolve seed shells – effectively, wood – onto your paint. This WILL etch your paint, and very possibly lead to clear coat failure. There other factors to this, but this is a simplification. A bird did bomb my paint, and rather than the usual glob, it looked like the material kind of “shattered,” for lack of a better term, and I saw no damage from it. Nice!
“Wax” is little more than a marketing term anymore, just for the sake of, let’s call it, “cultural awareness.” People say they’re going to “wash and wax” the car. Nobody ever says they’re going to “wash and seal” the car. WAX has Carnauba, and maybe some others, such as beeswax, paraffin, etc. FK1000P is actually all synthetic, which makes it a SEALANT.
FK1000P has NO cleaners, nor polishing ability, and will NOT take care of those “things” in the paint. If your paint has scratches, pits, stains, etc., this will NOT fix them. For those, use polish, or compound, if you’re comfortable with it, but do your homework there, too, so you don’t do more damage than you started with. Sometimes you just have to live with the paint on your machine being imperfect. From some angles, the imperfections are covered by the shine, and from just a few feet away, it looks better than it should, so that’s a consideration, too. It DID leave some white in some chips, and I’ll have to go over those with a quick, wipe-on-wipe-off (WOWO) (“Like dissolves like.”), and maybe a toothpick.
It’s claimed that it will withstand over 250 degrees F, so for summer, it shouldn’t boil (evaporate) off the vehicle, like actual WAX seems to, and is one of the reasons I chose to try it. In the forums, it’s very highly recommended for those living in the hot Southwest.
Other reviewers have said to NOT get it on the black, plastic trim or weatherstripping, as it will stain them white. I go out of my way to not get most products on those pieces, so I can’t tell you if it stains, or not.
Durability has been claimed anywhere from 3-9 months, depending on if it’s outside in the desert, or garaged in New England and not used in the winter, etc. Seems to have an “average” lifespan of 5-7 months. I don’t expect to be able to rate that, because I don’t let it sit that long. Now, it MAY be wearing on the roof somewhat faster, but that DOES get pounded from sunrise to sunset. That COULD be due to the Meg’s NXT being under it, too… I don’t know what the boil temp is for their stuff, but I don’t think I’ve ever gotten more than 6 weeks out of them or Mother’s. Can’t explain it; just my experience.
Now, I’m still a fan of my Collinites, but I think for summer, I’m going to stick with the FK1000P – next year, maybe do the “Klasse twins,” then use this OVER them.
Applicator used (the 60-pack is what I got):
{Factory Direct Sale} (pack of 60) Waxing Polish Wax Foam Sponge Applicator Pads Fit for Clean Car Vehicle Auto Glass Yellow
by FDS{Factory Direct Sale} (pack of 60) Waxing Polish Wax Foam Sponge Applicator Pads Fit for Clean Car Vehicle Auto Glass Yellow
https://www.amazon.com/Factory-Direct-Waxing-Applicator-Vehicle/dp/B00LBUAN46/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1466302463&sr=1-6&keywords=wax+applicator&refinements=p_36%3A1253493011
Same product, but 120 of them (what I SHOULD HAVE gotten)!
{Factory Direct Sale} (pack of 120) Waxing Polish Wax Foam Sponge Applicator Pads Fit for Clean Car Vehicle Auto Glass Yellow
by FDS{Factory Direct Sale} (pack of 120) Waxing Polish Wax Foam Sponge Applicator Pads Fit for Clean Car Vehicle Auto Glass Yellow
https://www.amazon.com/Factory-Direct-Waxing-Applicator-Vehicle/dp/B00LBUHM40/ref=sr_1_29?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1466302485&sr=1-29&keywords=wax+applicator&refinements=p_36%3A1253493011
Here’s your homework: Using whichever search engine you like, type in:
fk1000p (If you type “fk1000p review,” it was that first review – Autopia – with the blue new-gen GTO that caught my eye. Start there for your reading.)
bird etch paint
clear coat failure (Click on the “Photo Archive” link! In 2016, the lowest-priced car I can think of is about $12,000, and the -AVERAGE- new car costs OVER $30,000! In some areas, that’s a house… Still wanna NOT protect your multi-thousand-dollar investment?)
lacro –
Ran out of my tried and true Collinite 845 so i thought i’d try something else. Glad i did. This sealant holds up to the harsh NY winters, and is easier to apply/remove than Collinite. I used it on my wife’s 2012 Rav 4 that is a daily driver and lives outside year round. It’s black, and requires a lot of detailing to keep it nice. It’s got steel wheels which get destroyed quickly by NY salted roads every winter, but the Hi Temp wax keeps them looking new throughout the winter. I just did a multi-day late spring detail. Foam gun soak, 2 bucket wash, towel dry, clay (including glass), polish with Blackfire Total Polish and Seal, and finally the the Hi Temp Wax. You absolutely must apply this wax sparingly!! Less is more. A tiny bit goes a long way, etc. I can’t emphasize this enough. If you apply too much, it will be more difficult to remove. Applied correctly, it goes on and comes off very easily, and leaves a great deep very long lasting protection, and shine as long as the surface you apply it to is clean, and smooth (i.e. clayed and polished). I use a Porter Cable DA polisher to apply the wax with a Buff-N-Shine white 4″ foam pad. The 4″ pads work good for apply wax as they fit in tighter areas easily. Also the 4″ pad fits into the wax tin so all I need to do is take ONE gentle swipe across the wax with pad (not rotating), and that’s enough wax for a whole door on an SUV. You know when to reload the pad when the swirls formed by the pad start to look dull, indicating the lack of wax on the pad. Let it dry at least 20 min. and remove with a SOFT microfiber towel, and finish with a buff by using afresh side of the towel. Absolutely stunning results!!