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Descrição do Produto: Kit de Garras de 800 Amp da Associated Equipment 6205
O Kit de Garras de 800 Amp da Associated Equipment 6205 é a solução definitiva para quem busca eficiência e confiabilidade em cabos de impulso. Com um design robusto e materiais de alta qualidade, este kit é ideal para atender às demandas de veículos de grande porte e aplicações que exigem um desempenho superior. As garras pesadas são projetadas para garantir uma conexão segura e eficiente, essencial para a partida de veículos em situações críticas.
Fabricadas nos Estados Unidos, as garras do kit 6205 são sinônimo de durabilidade e resistência. A construção sólida e a atenção aos detalhes garantem que você tenha um produto que não apenas atende, mas supera as expectativas do mercado. Se você precisa substituir garras associadas ou deseja fazer um upgrade em produtos de outros fabricantes, este kit é a escolha perfeita.
- Instruções de Uso:
Para utilizar o Kit de Garras de 800 Amp da Associated Equipment 6205, siga os passos abaixo:
1. Preparação: Certifique-se de que ambos os veículos estejam desligados e que as garras estejam em boas condições.
2. Conexão: Conecte a garra vermelha ao terminal positivo (+) da bateria do veículo com a bateria descarregada. Em seguida, conecte a outra extremidade da garra vermelha ao terminal positivo (+) da bateria do veículo que está funcionando.
3. Conexão da Garra Negativa: Conecte a garra preta ao terminal negativo (-) da bateria do veículo que está funcionando. A outra extremidade da garra preta deve ser conectada a uma parte metálica não pintada do veículo com a bateria descarregada, longe da bateria.
4. Partida do Veículo: Ligue o veículo que está funcionando e, após alguns minutos, tente ligar o veículo com a bateria descarregada.
5. Desconexão: Após a partida, desconecte as garras na ordem inversa da conexão, começando pela garra preta e, em seguida, a garra vermelha.
Características do Produto:
– Capacidade de Corrente: 800 Amp, ideal para veículos de grande porte e aplicações exigentes.
– Material: Construído com materiais de alta resistência, garantindo durabilidade e segurança.
– Compatibilidade: Funciona com todos os tipos de cabos de impulso, facilitando a substituição e o upgrade.
– Origem: Fabricado nos EUA, assegurando padrões de qualidade rigorosos.
– Design Ergonômico: Garras projetadas para facilitar o manuseio e a conexão, mesmo em condições adversas.
– Resistência à Corrosão: Materiais de alta qualidade que oferecem resistência à corrosão, aumentando a durabilidade do produto.
– Desempenho em Temperaturas Extremas: Projetado para funcionar em uma ampla faixa de temperaturas, garantindo confiabilidade em condições adversas.
Perguntas Frequentes (FAQ):
Pergunta: O Kit de Garras de 800 Amp é compatível com todos os tipos de veículos?
Resposta: Sim, o kit é projetado para ser compatível com todos os tipos de veículos, incluindo carros, caminhões e SUVs.
Pergunta: As garras são resistentes à corrosão?
Resposta: Sim, as garras são feitas de materiais de alta qualidade que oferecem resistência à corrosão, aumentando sua durabilidade.
Pergunta: Posso usar este kit em temperaturas extremas?
Resposta: Sim, o Kit de Garras de 800 Amp é projetado para funcionar em uma ampla faixa de temperaturas, garantindo desempenho confiável em condições adversas.
Pergunta: Como posso saber se as garras estão danificadas?
Resposta: Verifique visualmente se há rachaduras, desgaste excessivo ou corrosão nas garras. Se notar qualquer dano, é recomendável substituí-las.
Pergunta: O que devo fazer se o veículo não ligar após usar o kit?
Resposta: Verifique todas as conexões para garantir que estão firmes e corretas. Se o problema persistir, pode haver uma falha na bateria ou no sistema elétrico do veículo.
Tim H –
The clamps on my original jumper cables rusted – so much for copper plating. Anyway the contact on these is solid copper so no rusting there, and the clamps are completely coated with rubber dip. The design of the contacts is a sort of male to female V which grips the battery terminal very nicely and they open very wide.
It is somewhat of a job putting them on the cable. You have to crimp the contact which is very heavy gauge copper and fairly large. I have a very heavy duty set of crimpers – using them, a vice and a hammer I eventually got them crimped. Also the little screw to secure the contact is a challenge. Definitely a 5/5 for quality. Just takes a little work than I anticipated to get them on the cable.
J.M. –
If you are interested in building your own set of heavy duty jumper cables, these are the clamps you need! They are well made and should last a very long time. Paired with #1 or #2 gauge welding cable, they should be able to jumpstart almost any vehicle.
UPDATE:
Have used several times helping out friends of mine and they do not disappoint. They require a good deal of effort to open the clamps but they grip the terminals very well. The coating on the clamps is very durable and should last a lifetime. Very satisfied.
John A. Benson –
Very heavy duty jumper cable ends, wood recommend spending the money on these everybody. Wow very good stuff.
chris hadji –
These are the perfect, direct replacement for any quality battery charger! American Made, AWESOME QUALITY!
EzPzy –
These clamps are seriously heavy-duty – best I’ve ever seen – and they work great with 1/0 welding cable, though it is a very tight squeeze trying to get a cable that large to push through the built-in strain relief springs in the handle and past the clamp spring. No way would I have been able to do it with a 2/0 cable or larger. When they say “For use with cable AWG:1/0, 1, 2” they mean it. I’m sure had I used a 1awg or 2awg cable it would have been a whole lot easier but I was looking to make the beefiest set of cables I could get away with.
A couple notes about assembly. You’ll want to be sure to follow the directions that can be found on the back of the package (I’ll try to provide a photo of them) and insert the cable though the opened clamp first before stripping the end and attaching the jaw. To be able to do so you’ll have to secure the clamp in an open position. FWIW I used a ~13″ piece of paracord with the ends tied together into a loop using a fisherman’s knot and that gave me a loop sized so that as I squeezed the clamp open I could make an extra wrap on the side of the handle opposite where the cable goes though to make use of the little notches so that the cord would stay in place better and not slip off. I’ll try to post an image of it so hopefully you might be able to see what I mean. All that said, you might just find it easier to use something else to hold your clamps open like duct tape or whatnot.
When it came to crimping the jaws to the cable the instructions say to use “pliers or a vise”. Well, I used a 12″ set of channellocks (tongue & groove pliers) to start the bend on the end of each tab but I have to say it wasn’t easy. I seriously doubt I would have been able to complete the crimp with just the pliers alone. Perhaps if I had a 16″ or 20″ set I might have been able to? I dunno? The jaws are thick tough little buggers to bend. Once the tabs were folded over just a tad with just enough room to still slip the stripped cable end in there I then completed the crimp using a bench vise, and even then it wasn’t easy. After getting a good solid crimp connection I then used a propane torch and soldered the connection.
Lastly, securing the jaws to the clamps was also a bit of a pain to do. The instructions’ step 3 & ‘figure #4’ doesn’t really show it very well. After pulling the cable back into place so that the hole in the jaw lines up with the hole in the clamp I pressed it firmly into place using the channellocks. When doing so I positioned a rag between the pliers and the handle so I didn’t mar up the epoxy insulating finish. I suppose if you used a cable size smaller than the 1/0awg that I did the crimped end might fit down into the clamp a little more easily, but Only after pressing the jaws firmly into place like that was I able to get the little screw with the plastic sleeve on it to protrude enough through the handle to catch a thread with the provided nut. Then it’s a bit of a fight to get it to tighten up. The acorn nut will sink itself into the hole in the handle while you tighten the screw with a flathead screwdriver. Once you get to the point where you are no longer able to keep anything on the nut to keep it from turning then you’re done.
Well, I hope I didn’t scare anyone away making it seem like it’s not worth the effort, because it certainly was. I now have a set of cables even better than my last 25′ 1awg set which served me well for more than two decades before they were reportedly ‘borrowed’ (without asking me first) by a family member and never returned. As long as I can manage to not let something like that happen again with these I suspect they will be the last set I ever need and should serve me well in every foreseeable situation.
I hope you found this review helpful. If anyone has any questions or better suggestions that what I provided please add a comment.
Jason –
cheaply made, bought made in USA believing that there would be better quality and instead I got a product that it is NOT engineered for durability and quality but expensive, flimsy and cheaply made and engineered, it’s a shame that they put the made in USA on it, it should read “made in china” .
EzPzy –
These are probably the best clamps you can get. The copper lugs are so heavy, it takes a hammer to start closing them and the rest can be done in a vise. If you use these enough, you an throw your portable hand exercising devices in the garbage, they are so strong which means they will make sure you get a good solid connection when jump starting something. When you are jumping something, usually a car at night or in bad weather, you want to get the job done quickly and not have to keep checking if it is connected, you know what I mean. These will make sure it will be done and done quickly.
George K. –
Says it was made for up to 1/0 but was able to put 2/0 welding cable through em, great investment and feel sturdy