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- Smart Battery Isolator: The dual battery isolator ensures that the main battery is always charged and ready to start the vehicle. It’s like your vehicle has two separate power sources for each battery while only having one alternator
- Voltage Display: After connection, the voltage display is 13.5V-16V(12V working voltage); 27V-32V (24V working voltage). The battery isolator will disconnect immediately if it is below 12.5 V. There is a 5 second delay when connecting or disconnecting automatically
- Applicable to Lithium Batteries: The dual battery isolator adds a lithium battery connection cable, so it can be applied to vehicles with lithium batteries to maintain the stable performance of the car battery. This product has 4 fixing holes for easy installation
- Unrestrained Start Engine: Current: 250 Amps; Voltage: 12/24V (Universal). LCD display: real time monitoring of 2 batteries voltage. After installing this smart battery isolator, there is no need to worry that the engine cannot be started when the battery is dead, just press the emergency button and turn on the auxiliary battery to start quickly
- Wide Range of Applications: The battery isolator kit has a small design, does not take up space, and is compatible with a variety of vehicles, such as 12V/24V trucks, ATVs, UTVs, boats, RVs, vans, off-road vehicles, and campers
Key Fob Batteries Replacement for Nissan (Rogue Altima Sentra Versa Pathfinder Murano Maxima Kicks Titan Frontier Infiniti Armada Leaf Juke Quest) Smart Remote (4 Total Batteries)
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Frete Grátis em todo o BrasilProduto Original Importado dos EUA
250 Amp Dual Battery Isolator Kit, Universal 12V/24V VSR Voltage Sensitive Relay Switch Kit, Heavy Duty Smart Battery Isolator for Marine Car Truck RV ATV
*$1,021.00
Informação adicional
| Connector Type | Screw |
|---|---|
| Contact Material | Copper |
| Current Rating | 250 Amps |
| Mounting Type | Panel Mount |
| Brand | GMURA |
AJ Sanborn –
So far it works perfectly. Does what it’s supposed to. Would purchase again.
Peter Holley –
Once I found a spot to attach the device it was very easy to wire up. Attaching it the chassis was the hard part.
Apparently you do not need the red wire connected unless using a lithium battery.
The instructions say that the yellow and black wire go to a switch to manually connect the batteries. I found that the black wire is just ground so I only needed to run one wire to the switch with the other end locally grounded. I used the same ground to install an indicator from the blue wire. Now I can see that the batteries are connected with the indicator.
It seems that the solar charger for the house battery may also activate it as well so the chassis gets charged. I’ll update if I find that I’m mistaken on this.
I did find the instructions for the blink patterns to be not super helpful .
Piet S. –
Installed it more than a month ago and it is still working fine.
George M. Dudash –
I purchased this unit to install in my 2017 Thor Citation motor home. We purchased the RV used and I noticed that the house batteries would only charge up, on shore power. The engine alternator did not connect to the house batteries at all. I investigated whether or not they SHOULD be charging but only got mixed information from the RV forums. I decided that I would just bite the bullet and install one of these, no matter what.
As it turns out, the Thor Citation IS equipped with a solenoid that is supposed to connect the two battery systems together when the alternator is working. BUT my solenoid was bad.
I could have cheaped out and just bought a simple starter solenoid to replace the one that came with the coach, but that one failed; Probably due to arcing when the mechanical contacts made and broke each time the vehicle was started. So instead, I just removed the old solenoid and replaced it with this solid state unit. It was EASY. The job took just a few minutes to swap existing wiring. If the wonderful “German Engineering” hadn’t hidden all of this under the driver’s seat of the RV, I would have been done in 15 minutes instead of an hour.
We’ll see how long it lasts, but SO FAR SO GOOD.
I dinged the unit one star because, as others have already stated, the “emergency start button” is located on the same panel that the connections are on???? C’mon guys. The meter and buttons should NOT be on the same panel as the high current connectors! I could have installed the box next to the side panel of the seat and had easy access to the display and the button if they had only been on a side by themselves.
Paul –
I have this installed in my vehicle containing the main lead acid starting battery and lithium iron phosphate battery for my solar installation. I have the solar controller connected directly to the lithium battery and during long idle time it eventually connects both batteries so both batteries always stay charged. Also, when vehicle engine is started the lithium battery is connected to the starting battery so both can charge but there is a slight delay so the secondary battery won’t get damaged during cranking the engine. This device works 100% as it should as long as it is correctly installed with one of the wires going to the ignition positive connection.
Jim T. –
I most likely would have awarded this Dual Battery Isolator 5 stars if the instructions were not so confusing and contradicting! Before ordering, I watched the Charlie Chaplen style silent instruction vedeo several times, it never mentioned the need to purchase a 300 amp fuse (which delayed the completion of the install by 4 days) and the explaination of the addtional black wire contradicted the poorly written printed instructios!
Sure wish there was an American made alternative!
RGB –
Seller unfamiliar with , or not knowledgeable on the product. The Isolator, is powered by the Car Battery: The Main battery. It draws power, and gets very hot when in use. After waking up, it remains “in use” with lights on and radiating body very hot for most of a day. That draws power from the Main Battery. This unit has killed a brand new AGM car battery. I would have expected this to draw power from the secondary battery. The whole idea of the unit is to ensure that the main battery is not drained. That is why it isolates the main battery from the load on the secondary battery. This unit is itself a load, and over a few weeks it kills the battery. Repeated draining, will mean needing to buy a new battery.
After reaching out to the seller, and repeatedly answering questions he asked, the seller just fades out.
He may have refunded my money originally. I don’t remember and the invoice is confusing. BUT that refund was due to the pain it was to figure out what their awful microscopic instruction card in the box, said. Many here complained about that. Eventually I figured it out, and installed it, only to find that it is killing the main battery!
terry –
Think of the yellow wire as a remote emergency start switch. If you bury the dual battery isolater somewhere where you can’t reach the emergency start switch the remote borrow wire (yellow) can be used as a remote emergency start switch on your vehicles dash. The yellow wire when connected to ground (switched on) causes the car battery to connect/borrow from the auxiliary battery to start the car. After car starts turn borrow switch off so batteries are isolated again. Blue wire powers a light to indicate your batteries are connected (in borrowed mode) light on. When in isolated mode light is off. Blue wire connects to one side of the light and the outside of light to black/ground wire. Red wire is for lithium battery auxiliary only. In lithium battery use connect the red wire to the ACC (accessory side of the ignition switch). When you insert the key into the ignition switch and turn it to the left you are turning on the ACC circuit. This connection helps maintain the stable performance of the car battery. It took a lot of reading/research to figure what they mean by borrow switch. Hope this helps.