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Descrição do Produto:
A YHTAUTO apresenta o suporte de elevação para a porta traseira do Jeep Grand Cherokee, um componente essencial para garantir a funcionalidade e segurança do seu veículo. Este produto é uma substituição direta para as peças originais, atendendo a todas as especificações OEM, o que significa que você pode confiar na qualidade e no desempenho. Compatível com os modelos Jeep Grand Cherokee dos anos 2005 a 2010, nas séries WK e WH, este suporte de elevação é projetado para ser instalado na parte traseira do veículo, especificamente no porta-malas.
Com um design que inclui extremidades Torx, o cilindro preto possui um comprimento de 12,78 polegadas, garantindo um ajuste perfeito e uma operação suave. Os números de referência, como 55394323AA, 55394322AA, 68025358AA, entre outros, asseguram que você está adquirindo um produto que se encaixa perfeitamente nas especificações do seu Jeep. A instalação é simples e não requer ferramentas especiais, permitindo que você substitua os suportes antigos de forma rápida e eficiente.
- Instruções de Uso:
Para instalar os suportes de elevação YHTAUTO, siga estas etapas:
1. Remova os suportes antigos: Utilize uma chave Torx para soltar os parafusos que fixam os suportes de elevação antigos na porta traseira.
2. Posicione os novos suportes: Alinhe os novos suportes YHTAUTO nos pontos de fixação, garantindo que as extremidades Torx estejam corretamente posicionadas.
3. Aperte os parafusos: Com a chave Torx, aperte os parafusos até que os suportes estejam firmemente fixados, mas evite apertar excessivamente para não danificar as peças.
4. Teste a operação: Após a instalação, abra e feche a porta traseira para garantir que os suportes estão funcionando corretamente e proporcionando a resistência necessária.
Características do Produto:
– Compatibilidade: Projetado especificamente para Jeep Grand Cherokee 2005-2010 (WK/WH).
– Material de Alta Qualidade: Fabricado com materiais duráveis que garantem uma longa vida útil.
– Instalação Direta: Substituição fácil e rápida, sem necessidade de modificações.
– Design com Extremidades Torx: Proporciona um encaixe seguro e estável.
– Comprimento do Cilindro: 12,78 polegadas, ideal para o ajuste correto na porta traseira.
Perguntas Frequentes (FAQ):
Pergunta: Os suportes de elevação YHTAUTO são compatíveis com outros modelos de Jeep?
Resposta: Não, os suportes de elevação YHTAUTO são projetados especificamente para os modelos Jeep Grand Cherokee de 2005 a 2010, nas séries WK e WH.
Pergunta: É necessário algum tipo de ferramenta especial para a instalação?
Resposta: Não, a instalação pode ser realizada com uma chave Torx comum, tornando o processo simples e acessível.
Pergunta: Qual é a garantia oferecida para este produto?
Resposta: A YHTAUTO oferece uma garantia limitada que cobre defeitos de fabricação, garantindo a qualidade e a durabilidade do produto.
Pergunta: Como posso saber se os suportes de elevação precisam ser substituídos?
Resposta: Se você notar que a porta traseira não está se mantendo aberta ou se está apresentando dificuldade para abrir e fechar, é um sinal de que os suportes de elevação podem precisar ser substituídos.
Pergunta: Os suportes de elevação YHTAUTO são resistentes a condições climáticas adversas?
Resposta: Sim, os suportes são fabricados com materiais que resistem a diversas condições climáticas, garantindo desempenho confiável em diferentes ambientes.
George –
Fits easy to Grand Cherokee 2005 5.7, works fine!
George –
The media could not be loaded.
Great product. All I had to do was remove the metal shell, pull off the joint from the ball, and unbolt the ball from the metal with a socket set. Next, i did the same thing to the bottom and then put the new ones in place (i recommend doing the bottom one first). After, I screwed the bolt on the new strut into the hole using a hexagonal screwdriver bit from my mechanics set. I did the same on the top, and on the other side. The trunk stayed up from replacing one, but I REALLY recommend changing both because once one new one is in, the other old one will fail very soon and bonk you in the head. I VERY MUCH RECOMMEND THESE STRUTS!!!
Ricque Fann –
It’s a well made product. And saved me a ton of money getting it elsewhere. It doesn’t just snap on like the factory trunk hydraulics do, but I feel that makes it feel more secure.
crazyredj –
Of course I supervised, but my 9-year-old son installed these on his own. It’s been a few weeks and they’re holding up great.
Tinkerer –
Lifter were exact replacement. Only tppk 5 minutes to remove thevold ones and install new ones. Hatch is working like new and lift all the way open now.
Amazon Customer –
These tailgate lift supports work great for my 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Super easy to install, took about 5 minutes
dray –
This was for a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee rear glass strut replacements that were no longer holding up. Installation was easier than anticipated, as after having removing the glass nut thinking it was a necessary step to swap onto new struts, realized after the fact the simplest method was to just remove the tension clip holding strut onto the ball joint. However, those clips are a bit loose and I was able to take them off as easy as snapping on. Since they were just replaced today, I will have to see if they pop off on their own, in which I am considering tightening the clips after removing from ball joint to see if that helps. Since I did not purchase vehicle new, unsure if pressure too high – the glass springs up fairly quickly which makes me more suspect of the hinge falling off ball joint. Otherwise they work very well for the cost and quick receipt of product.
Motofish –
Just installed these, they seem to work well so far. Will update if they don’t work out long term. I like the dust boots they came with and they seem to be built quite sturdy. They lift the rear hatch of our 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee from nearly closed to fully open, but they aren’t hard to close either. Good balance. Installation is a little more challenging, but it’s really pretty easy to do.
Disclaimer: the specifics here apply to my 08 Jeep Grand Cherokee, if you have another year or model i make no guarantees. Also, im not a car mechanic, just a handy DIY type of guy, so your results and or situation may vary.
Tools needed:
In order to install these you will need a medium sized flathead screwdriver, a 13mm deep socket (and ratchet, also a 4 inch extension helps), and a T40 torx socket (or bit). Optional: a 5ft 2×4, vice grips or 1x suitably tall helper to hold open the hatch (1x refers to quantity, not size, though on that topic im a 2x going on 3x these days and had no trouble holding up the hatch… sorry, TMI…).
To start, open the hatch and secure it with 1x suitable helper, the 2×4, or vice grips on the shaft of one of the struts (to keep it open).
To remove the factory struts, use the flathead screwdriver to pry gently under the metal band on each of the ball Sockets at the ends of the struts, while pulling away from the strut mount. Work on replacing one strut at a time to avoid a headache (should be fairly obvious as to why). Also, take note of the orientation of the factory struts and install your in the same orientation. Mine were positioned so the strut body is above the exposed shaft.
Once the strut is removed, use the 13mm socket to remove the strut mounting studs. Then screw the replacement strut studs in place using the T40 torx socket (bit). I highly recommend starting these by hand, as they are easy to cross thread, especially when you do the second one on each side (due to the strut being extended). I found it easiest to put the top one (on the side of the hatch) in first, so the second one (on the vehicle body) was right in front of me, but you do you.
For the second stud (on each side), it will be necessary to use the hatch as a lever to help get the stud lined up straight, it should thread in easily, if you can’t turn it by hand for at least 1/4″ of threads, you are cross threading it.
When installing the second strut, I used a 2×4 of sufficient length to hold the hatch open, as one strut will not keep it open alone. Here is where it is handy to have a 1x suitable helper (remember, quantity not size, although if helper is smaller than 1x a step stool might be useful…). Use caution, if using the 2×4, as it will fall out when you move the hatch to line up your second stud (another headache alert). I did not use the vicegrips on the new strut, in order to prevent marring of the shaft and subsequent destruction of the inner seal. Once the second stud has been started (at least 1/4″) the hatch should stay open on its own and you can finish tightening them down all the way and/or check them to be sure they are all snug.
If you made it this far, then congratulations! You can make it through an incredibly long and boring post! Oh, and your hatch will now stay open too… yay. Unless you received broken struts in which case you get to undo all your hard work… and then do it again when your replacements arrive… sorry.
Noah Reeves –
Quedo a la primera, muy bien !