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### Descrição do Produto
O Dorman 674-843 Manifold Converter Lado do Passageiro é a solução ideal para quem busca um substituto de alta qualidade para o conversor de catalisador original em modelos selecionados da Infiniti e Nissan. Este conversor de manifold é projetado para ser uma substituição direta, garantindo que se encaixe perfeitamente e ofereça o mesmo desempenho que o equipamento original. Com a fabricação nos Estados Unidos, o Dorman 674-843 é sinônimo de durabilidade e confiabilidade.
Este kit conveniente inclui gaxetas e hardware para o downpipe, simplificando o processo de instalação e economizando tempo e esforço. A construção robusta do Dorman 674-843 é realizada dentro de tolerâncias rigorosas, assegurando uma longevidade confiável e um desempenho consistente ao longo do tempo. Além disso, a Dorman conta com uma equipe de engenheiros e especialistas em controle de qualidade nos Estados Unidos, garantindo um valor confiável para o consumidor.
Para garantir que este componente se encaixe perfeitamente no seu veículo, basta inserir a marca, modelo e nível de acabamento no nosso ferramenta de garagem. Isso assegura que você receba a peça correta, evitando problemas de compatibilidade.
### Instruções de Uso:
Para utilizar o Dorman 674-843, siga as instruções abaixo:
1. Preparação do Veículo: Desconecte a bateria e levante o veículo em um suporte seguro.
2. Remoção do Conversor Antigo: Remova o conversor de catalisador antigo, soltando os parafusos e desconectando as gaxetas.
3. Instalação do Novo Conversor: Posicione o Dorman 674-843 no lugar do conversor antigo. Utilize as gaxetas e o hardware incluído para fixá-lo corretamente.
4. Verificação de Conexões: Certifique-se de que todas as conexões estão firmes e que não há vazamentos.
5. Teste do Veículo: Reconecte a bateria e ligue o veículo para verificar se o novo conversor está funcionando corretamente.
### Características do Produto
– Substituição Direta: Projetado para se alinhar perfeitamente com os modelos específicos da Infiniti e Nissan.
– Kit Conveniente: Inclui todas as gaxetas e hardware necessários para uma instalação simplificada.
– Construção Durável: Fabricado com materiais de alta qualidade, garantindo resistência e longevidade.
– Controle de Qualidade: Produzido sob rigorosos padrões de qualidade nos Estados Unidos.
– Compatibilidade Garantida: Ferramenta de garagem disponível para verificar a compatibilidade com seu veículo.
### Perguntas Frequentes (FAQ)
Pergunta: O Dorman 674-843 é compatível com meu veículo?
Resposta: Para garantir a compatibilidade, insira a marca, modelo e nível de acabamento do seu veículo na ferramenta de garagem disponível em nosso site.
Pergunta: O que está incluído no kit?
Resposta: O kit inclui o conversor de manifold, gaxetas e hardware para o downpipe, facilitando a instalação.
Pergunta: Este produto é fabricado nos Estados Unidos?
Resposta: Sim, o Dorman 674-843 é fabricado nos Estados Unidos, garantindo altos padrões de qualidade.
Pergunta: É necessário algum equipamento especial para a instalação?
Resposta: Embora não seja necessário equipamento especial, recomenda-se o uso de ferramentas básicas de mecânica, como chaves e soquetes.
Pergunta: O Dorman 674-843 é CARB compliant?
Resposta: Não, este produto não é compatível com as normas CARB. Verifique as regulamentações locais antes da instalação.
Jonathan P. –
I bought these to correct the dreaded P0420/P0430 codes. I’ve got about 420 miles on them and so far so good. It got rid of the check engine light and the Armada runs a lot better now. Dealer wanted $3k for oem manifolds installed and I was able to buy these and get them installed for around $1100 total parts and labor.
T. Eney –
Purchased and installed the left and right side. (674-843 and 674-844) It rusted completely through in 3.5 years.Three and a half years is a far cry from a Lifetime. Following the direction of the PDF warranty instructions, I contacted Dorman multiple times directly. They responded that they absolutely do NOT deal directly with the consumer and that I would have to go back to the place of purchase which was Amazon (not a 3rd party vendor). Amazon’s initial response was that it was out of their Amazon return policy. Through multiple phone calls and contacts over multiple weeks, Amazon agreed to refund my money. Since Amazon, themselves, no longer stock the product, they were not able to replace the product. Problem is, the refund for the 2 parts was only for the $603 that I purchased them for originally. And to re-purchase this product costs $730 at today’s price. So Dorman’s promise of a Lifetime Warranty is only so good. My refund took 2 months of calls and emails and I still need to spend an additional $127 to replace the part.
GScott –
Good quality, and fits perfectly. Very difficult job. The trick is to remove the engine mount on the RH side. But getting those bolts out was very difficult. Once that was accomplished, jacking up the engine on the right side provided enough clearance to get the exhaust manifold in and out.
Billyray –
I looked everywhere for an exhaust manifold and found http://www.clubtitan.org/forums/12-performance-mods/57680-my-jba-header-install.html I have adapted his guide for a direct fit manifold install and added my findings that helped me, if you want to see pictures that go with this guide visit his thread and give him a thanks. So thanks River Rat, I could never have gotten this done without your guide. I hope that this one can help anyone that is planning on doing this install themselves. Ok so tools that you will need:
Jack
Jack Stands
1/2″ socket wrench(I found it nice to have to help break bolts free. But not a must)
3/8″ socket wrench
3/8″ sockets (10mm-14mm to be on the safe side. most of it will be done with the 10mm and the 14mm)
3/8″ extensions of various sizes
3/8″ swivel joint (if you don’t have a swivel joint get one!)
some box-end wrenches may come in handy as well(10mm-14mm)
O2 socket
A piece of 2×4 about 5″ long.
Screw Drivers (you will need a Philips and a Flat Head)
Impact wrench (not necessary but a huge help)
Penetrating Lubricant (spray on manifold nuts and lets soak a few times before trying to loosen.)
Some Anti-Seize.
Maybe some ziploc baggies and a sharpie.
Step 1. Park your truck preferably on flat ground and close to a power source (Will be mandatory depending on how you choose to install your cats and rest of exhaust.) set the emergency break and chock the back wheels if you can for extra safety.
Step 2. Loosen your lug nuts on both front tires. Then jack up your truck and set it on jack stands. Take off the lug nuts and then the tires.
Step 3. Remove both front inner fender well liners by taking out the screws and clips. Then wiggle it out of there and set some where safe and out of the way. Next remove the engine cover and air intake hose and filter box, top only) (You may want to put you screws and clips in a baggy or can and label the content inside)
Before you do anything else let the exhaust and motor cool if you haven’t already!
Step 4. Loosen the O2 sensors in the B-pipes do not take out yet. Take the nuts off the B-pipes flanges (4 nuts two at top of B-pipe and two at the bottom of B-pipe) and leave B-pipes where they are for now. Keep nuts in safe place if you plan on reusing the stock B-pipes.
Step 5. Now is time for the piece of 2×4. Look under the motor and you will see a flat portion of the aluminum floor pan. This is the jack point for the motor. There is a ridge on one side of the pan so I cut the 2×4 to fit on the flat part beside the ridge. Make sure that your 2×4 and jack will clear the power steering line that runs through the area. Then place the jack under the pan, place the 2×4 on the top of the jack and then jack up the engine slightly to relieve pressure on the motor mount bolts.
Step 6. Unbolt the motor mounts. I found that I needed to remove the entire motor mount to get the stock header out (River Rat did not). The motor mounts are located one on each side of the motor. To put it simple you will see a piece of metal that is bolted to the frame as well as the motor. remove all four bolts from the engine and the two that are on the frame side (the frame side will need to be accessed from above.)
Step 7. Now slowly jack up the motor while watching the motor mounts to make sure that you do not jack the motor to high and damage the intake.
Step 8. Once the motor is as high as the firewall will allow go ahead and unbolt the heat shields. There are for bolts that you must loosen, if the bolts break don’t worry the new manifold comes with new bolts. Once loosened you will need to either remove the O2 sensors from the manifolds or do as I did and use tin snips and cut the wires so you can get it past the O2 sensors (I replaced mine with Bosh Direct fit Sensors, you will need 4 the two upstream are the same and the two downstream are both different. All can be found here on Amazon). You may have to use some force to get it out of there. For me I had to unfold it so it was flat to get it out. Some people will cut it into multiple pieces to make it easier for them. Now would be a good time to spray some of that penetrating lube on the manifold nuts.
Step 9. Remove the O2 sensors from the manifold know and place in a safe area if you going to reuse the old ones, if you have more than 80,000 miles I suggest you replace them.
Step 10. Remove the bolt that holds the dip stick tube. You will not be able to remove it until the exhaust manifold is completely out. Spray the manifold nuts again and let it soak for a few.
Step 11. Unbolt the passenger’s side exhaust manifolds (I found the swivel and a couple of long extensions hooked up to an impact wrench worked best) remove the dip stick from engine block. After the manifold is unbolted take it off the studs and push it forward so you can move the B-pipe to the side making room for the manifold to come out.
Step 12. Do the same for the drivers side except the dipstick.
Step 13. Now put on your exhaust gasket Manifolds on . Remember for the passenger side to put the dipstick back in. Your are going to have to torque down the nuts for the headers to 33ft lbs. working from the inside out. (This is a pain due to the tight space and length of the torque wrench.) Then put the O2 sensors into the O2 bungs on the headers. Remember put anti-seize on the treads of the O2 sensors! (the Bosh Direct Replacements came with anti-seize)
Step 14. Now tighten the motor mount bolt till flush with the plate and then lower the motor. (I used a long screw driver to align the holes first.) Now finish tightening the motor mount bolts all the way. Replace heat shields and wheel liners. Put on the wheels and lower the car. Make sure the put the O2 sensors back into the B-pipes as well. Then check for any leaks.
T3_consulting –
Everything about this exhaust manifold is better that the OEM and I couldn’t be happier. Plus it saved me hundreds compared to what the dealership wanted. With that said, the installation was a pretty major undertaking, so be patient depending on your skill-set and tools available to you.
Donkey kong –
My 2005 Nissan Titan LE had both manifolds cracked. Shop wanted to use Walker branded replacements at $1600 per manifold!!!! I ordered a set of these and saved $2500. Shop said they fit perfectly although the install procedure was a 9 hour job for both sides. Been on my trucks for a few weeks, sounds great.
Quilt Lady –
Review by Quilt Lady’s hubby:
Put a pair of these on a friend’s ’04 Titan. They fit nicely with no leaks, but I took a close look at them before installing since a few reported incomplete welding. Couldn’t see anything from the outside so in a dark room I inserted a peanut bulb on a pair of wires connected to a 12v battery into each pipe & checked for any light on the outside. Yeah, not an exact test, but the best I could dream up. Didn’t want to fill them with H2O. Dorman may have “cracked” down (pun intended) on the welders because the welds weren’t that awful. My biggest complaint was it was impossible to get a socket on the right side lower most manifold bolt because of interference with the pipe. The only way to tighten that nut was the old school way of hook 1 open end wrench on the one 14mm open ended wrench on the nut.
This is not a job for the weak of heart or the mechanically challenged. I was a Tech for 40 years (not PU trucks) & found this challenging to do on the floor in my garage. It was 4WD so the front diff was an extra obstacle to work around, maybe 2WD is easier?. The old manifold nuts were VERY TIGHT & required additional leverage via a piece of pipe on a 1/2″ ratchet & broke loose with a loud BANG!
The gaskets were great, but too bad they didn’t include the gaskets between the secondary catalysts & the rest of the exhaust. My recommendation is to buy the OEM metal gaskets for those. They’ll seal better than aftermarket fabric gaskets.
I’ll update my review if any problems arise.